i got one at my local expensive napa auto parts store. its 3/4 drive and cost about $25. autozone and advance didn't have one. you can get a cheap one from harbor freight and other internet sites. some people have found one at sears.

 

Sheesh $25 is kinda steep. Looks like I'll be going to harbor freight tomorrow. So all there is to this fix is removing the old bearing and bolting on the new? Anything I need to watch out for? Thanks again.

 

yeah, its a bitch that autozone doesn't have a free rental on that.
you also need a 12pt 14mm socket. not a 6 pt. (not 9/16")
and soak the big nut and the 3 12 points on the back with lots of penetrating oil the day before and let it soak.
also soak down the bearing cavity in the hub and let it work in there too.

 

Try not to pull the axle shaft out with the bearing. Check the u-joint, though, and if need be replace it. I usually pack any voids in/around the bearing with Bel-Ray waterproof grease just for extra protection. Make sure the rotor hasn't been scored from running cocked and that the brake pads are evenly worn. With a bad bearing it is not unusual for the pads to wear unevenly. Take some pics.

 

dhvaughan, your DIY says the 3 bolts on the back are 14mm (yeah I actually read the whole thing) Is it 9/16 or was that a typo?

Thanks miami, I plan to inspect everything while I'm in there (not that I really know what I'm looking for haha)

 

They are 14mm

 

oops. 14mm.

 

you can get the socket at tractor supply. make sure you use a cheater bar on the breaker bar.

 

Ok, I have everything unbolted and soaked in penetrating oil, but I still can't get that bearing to budge. What is the best way to remove the bearing itself? This is getting very frustrating...

 

What kind of penetrating oil are you using? zman will chime in on this.