Try a regular sized breaker bar, and give it some sharp counter clockwise jolts with a good sized pounding hammer.
Then put a cheater bar [3 ft section of fence post works great] on the breaker bar, that should break it lose.

 

try again tomorrow after the penetrating fluid has some time to break the rust weld between the hub and spindle.
if you're using wd 40, pb, or liquid wrench then you had better plan on beating the **** outta that thing to get it off. since its shot you could beat on the back of the plate that the studs are in, just do it all the way around and not in one spot so you don't get it cockeyed in the spindle.

 

i chiseled mine out...and beat up the backing plate on my brake
and if its on the left side, it may be a left hand thread, mine was

 

he has the nut off already, the hub is stuck. and mine is right handed threads on both sides, i guess the 95's are just backwards.

 

if you have the big nut off the spindle, and the 3 12 points out of the back,
get some replacement, sacrificial bolts to replace the 3 12 points, and thread them in far enough to have FULL thread contact, but not all the way in. then tap/beat on the heads of those bolts to push the bearing out.

 

i didn't even think of that, it would get it though. one thing that may make things easier would be to pop your tie rod off so you'll be able to swing the spindle back and forth while you beat on it. its either that or jacking up the other wheel so you can turn the steering wheel back and forth to get better angles on the bolt heads.

 

Let me just say that you guys are friggen brilliant. I went to the hardware store and bought a 14mm fine thread bolt, placed it in each of the 3 holes and proceeded to beat the hell outa it with a 2 pound sledge. The bearing popped outa there like butter. Now comes the fun of installing the shiny new one!

What exactly is this axle seal that I have to be so careful about damaging? I see a couple of different seals in there, which one is the fragile one? Thanks.

 

The axle seal we referred to is in the axle housing near the pumpkin. You only have to worry about it if you remove the axle shaft as the splined end can damage it. There are no seals at the bearing.

 

Great thread...I am having the same issues. I am trying to replace the front axle joints. I got all the bolts off, soaked it for a while, beat on it for quite a while, but can't get the bearing to break loose. I have heard several times to put in some sacrificial bolts and beat on the ends to pop out the bearing. But...all the places I hear that, people are replacing the bearing as well. If I can add a question to this topic, will that ruin the threads if you want to reuse the bearing? I guess people will say it depends on how hard you hit them, but can you safely hit them pretty good.

 

If you get a bolt that is just as long as the originals then you can thread them almost all the way into the bearing, so no it won't damage the threads. I would think you could use the original bolts in a pinch because of how far they thread into the bearing. Unless you go crazy with a sledge hammer I don't think you could mess them up too bad.

Well I got-r-done without any more trouble. This was probably one of the easiest fixes I've done on this truck, and it would have been a lot easier if I had the proper tools. 1/2" and 3/4" drive breaker bars just won't cut it. I broke two 1/2" breaker bars and maimed a 3/4". I finally went and borrowed a friends 1" drive breaker bar and the rest was a piece of cake. Everything in the picture below was broken over the course of this repair.



Truck drives GREAT, no popping or grinding at all. It's a whole lot easier to steer now too. Thanks for all the help guys!