When you are chasing those threads, don't get pushy with your tap, you could break it off in the hole or cross thread the hole (that won't be fun to fix). Also use a thread cutting fliud or even engine oil to lubricate the tap. If seems to be going in tight back it out and look down the hole. You should remove any chips that have been made, cover everything well before blowing out the hole.

 

just my opinion, but i usually clean threads with a standard bolt and some wd40. using thread chasers is good, but most people don't have them, including me. when using a tap, if you're not real real careful, you can f*** up.

 

Yea, DV I've seen some pretty sad looking engines too. Its a crying shame when you open a hood and all you can see is black soot and oil everywhere and can't tell one part from another. I feel sorry for vehicles like that. They have feelings too you know.

 

f**K their feelings. get it running and drive it.

edit - you ought to see my old 76 chevy with 300k miles on the original engine and transmission, and leaking oil like a bitch for the last 20 years. you could cry a river over it. but it'd create an oil slick....

 

Geez did you stick that thing in salt water!!

 

ok if you can find a set of reverse bits they do help with the e-z outs. but if you use regular bits w-d40 or pb blaster the bolt before you drill take some grease and slather up around the stud you are drilling to help keep chipps and metal from going down in the lifter valley plus cover and tape up the intake and exhaust ports to keep out the chips. those bolts go down pretty far and the way it looks it broke by the head so go down about a 1/4 to a 1/2 inch w/ the drilling and the heat from drilling will warm up the bolt stud enough to E-Z out it

 

no torches are not required but it will allow the bolt to come out easier decreasing the chance it will break again or that you will snap the easy out (I have done this before and you can drill through those lol)

 

i actually was replacing my exhaust manifolds with headers, and one bolt broke off. i ended up using a reverse drill bit to drill the hole for a ez-out, and surprising, it came right out without the ez-out lol.

 

^ That's because sometimes it's not that the bolt is actually stuck, so much as metal fatigue. The bolt head got too weak and broke, but the bolt wasn't stuck. Heck I have broken heads off of lag bolts putting patios together and what not. They heat up as you are torquing them in and snap. At least in carpentry it's a little easier. Drill another hole, drive another bolt in, and go a little slower so it hopefully doesn't heat up as much.

 

i broke the hanger bolt on the front of my friends jeep when i was helping with the lift, that was a bitch

its also real funny when i break a big *** bolt on the farm, them ****ers really sound off when they break, followed by cursing from broken fastener and blooded up knuckles