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Right front U-Joint

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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 01:36 PM
  #21  
dhvaughan's Avatar
dhvaughan
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From: Gainesville, Ga.
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lol, i don't think Tim's going to answer from 2009.

this job is not for the faint of heart. it can go easy, or it suck bad, depending on whether the big axle nut comes off, and whether the hub/bearing comes out of the steering knuckle.

remove brakes, remove hub/bearing, remove axles, change u-joints, CAREFULLY and GENTLY reinstall axles and do NOT shove them in and damage the oil seals. reinstall everything. axle nut is torqued to something like 180 pounds so you need a good impact wrench.

see these
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-5.html
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-3.html
 
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 09:39 PM
  #22  
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Arde
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From: Dayton, TX.
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Originally Posted by dhvaughan
axle nut is torqued to something like 180 pounds so you need a good impact wrench.
Using an impact wrench you won't know what torque has been applied. My torque wrench goes to 150 lbs., so I made an extension. I made it equal in length to the torque wrench. The male end of the extension is 3/4", the female end is 1/2" to match the wrench. This effectively doubles the capacity of my torque wrench. When the torque measures 90, the torque being applied to the fastener is 180. Comes in very handy for those high torque nuts like the axle nuts and pinion nuts. And it's a hell of a lot cheaper than another torque wrench.

I used a piece of steel 3/8"x1 1/2" for the bar, which is heavier duty than necessary, but it's what I had laying around. Ground a notch in the end and welded a 1/2"-3/4" adapter in there. Did the same thing at the other end and welded in an old 1/2" drive socket.

Oh yeah, my torque wrench is the beam style, don't know how you would measure the length on the high dollar wrenches.
 
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