Right front U-Joint
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Thanks Miami! I will be careful removing/installing the axle.
On a side note, is the hub nut the same size on the 2500 as it is on the 1500? The FAQ says the 1500 needs a 1-11/16" Socket, hoping its the same for the 2500!
Thanks....
On a side note, is the hub nut the same size on the 2500 as it is on the 1500? The FAQ says the 1500 needs a 1-11/16" Socket, hoping its the same for the 2500!
Thanks....
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Los Angeles, CA
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Ok, I'm talking about my 98 Ram 2500 4x4 v10. Its in my profile now....
Anyways, I removed the 4 14mm flange bolts and the main hub nut. I also removed the 4 bolts that hold on the CAD vacuum motor and removed the fork from the axle. I rented a puller and have gotten some outward movement of about 1/4". I noticed the U-Joint assembly is now pushing against the back of the knuckle. So it seems im not getting very far.
Is the entire axle supposed to come like it seems is happening?
Is there a keeper somewhere that needs removed?
Am i on the right track?
Id take any comments and advice.
Thanks again,
Andy
Anyways, I removed the 4 14mm flange bolts and the main hub nut. I also removed the 4 bolts that hold on the CAD vacuum motor and removed the fork from the axle. I rented a puller and have gotten some outward movement of about 1/4". I noticed the U-Joint assembly is now pushing against the back of the knuckle. So it seems im not getting very far.
Is the entire axle supposed to come like it seems is happening?
Is there a keeper somewhere that needs removed?
Am i on the right track?
Id take any comments and advice.
Thanks again,
Andy
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 18,729
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From: NH
The hub bearing assembly is just stuck/rusted (the part you removed the 4 14mm bolts from) Go to a hardware store and get some bolts that are the same, and you can screw them back in and beat on them,instead of destroying the factory ones.
You should also get a Haynes manual
The bearing and axle are separate parts. The bearing will come out and then the axle.
You should also get a Haynes manual
The bearing and axle are separate parts. The bearing will come out and then the axle.
Last edited by zman17; Mar 3, 2010 at 07:56 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Gainesville, Ga.
old thread....
considering how much work it is to change a ujoint, i wouldn't put in an autozone part. get the Precision brand Super Strength. they offer greasable or non-grease and run $20-30 each. available at napa, oreilly, internet, etc.
if you get the greasable, you will need the screw in grease adapter. they don't use standard zerk due to low clearance. its about $5.
considering how much work it is to change a ujoint, i wouldn't put in an autozone part. get the Precision brand Super Strength. they offer greasable or non-grease and run $20-30 each. available at napa, oreilly, internet, etc.
if you get the greasable, you will need the screw in grease adapter. they don't use standard zerk due to low clearance. its about $5.
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If you have $45 dollars for parts, the right tools, and 3 hours, it a breeze. Just did mine last week and it was no problem even with all the rust I have. As far as the necessity...I claim to be no expert but I definitely noticed an improvement in my steering. I did both and the slight drift I had even after an alignment went away.
Which raises a good question, why didn't the god damn tire people tell me about this issue. I'm actually surprised they didn't try to get more money out of me by suggesting it.
Back to the point though...depending how badly worn they are, you run the risk of warping the "U's" if you will. I dunno the real name but the parts the the joint connects may need to be replaced if you wait. And the kicker, like in my case...you may find you need to do bearings/hubs as well. So weigh your options and bank account cuz hubs are $100 a piece minimum...
Hope this helps
Which raises a good question, why didn't the god damn tire people tell me about this issue. I'm actually surprised they didn't try to get more money out of me by suggesting it.
Back to the point though...depending how badly worn they are, you run the risk of warping the "U's" if you will. I dunno the real name but the parts the the joint connects may need to be replaced if you wait. And the kicker, like in my case...you may find you need to do bearings/hubs as well. So weigh your options and bank account cuz hubs are $100 a piece minimum...
Hope this helps