Hub Unit Bearing
I replaced my right hub unit bearing last night and it came off with ease. Surprisingly easy actually. I think maybe the people that have major issues with getting them off are either over 100k miles and have the originals or live up north where they get a lot of winter salts and grime that cause extra corrosion.
I've attached a couple pictures in case you don't know what it looks like. This is my old one and I pounded out the studs so I can keep them as spares. The rest is now trash. If you look at the 'back' picture, it failed between the outer silver ring and the dark ring next to it. When it spins it is rough and you can feel the slop in it by hand.
I've attached a couple pictures in case you don't know what it looks like. This is my old one and I pounded out the studs so I can keep them as spares. The rest is now trash. If you look at the 'back' picture, it failed between the outer silver ring and the dark ring next to it. When it spins it is rough and you can feel the slop in it by hand.
Last edited by Aubrey; Sep 11, 2012 at 07:19 PM.
mine gave me sligth trouble, but it wasnt the fitment itself, it was the 1 3/4" nut that held the axle to the assembly itself, as it took me and my stepdad and a 4 foot breaker bar to break it loose. the funny thing is, i only got 51,000 on the clock.
mine were easy too with 124000 miles on them. i think the majority of people that have trouble getting the hubs off are people that don't use penetrating fluid. pb and wd are not good penetrating fluids, i'm sure motor oil or trans fluid would work better.
ya, but ive used pb on these before, and it was easy, and that was a 95 with 213K on the clock. but then i also had one where i didnt have to use any penetrating fluid. that was on a 98 with 135K on the clock




