Those look like welded mounts to me- not plastic. You can even see the rusty inlet fitting.

Always replace with new ones or, you can have someone make you a set of Al ones for less than what it costs to buy new OEM. I would avoid junkyard fuel rails as well. Reason being is that they have been sitting without gas in them for God knows how long and, the insides are probably corroded worse than yours.

Get new ones.

 

Yeah, buy new. If all the sensors are new and the TB is free from carbon- it's your fuel system. I would junk / trash those old ones and get new ones.

You can get a new set here:https://www.dodgetruckparts.net/dodge-parts-search.html

The only other option is to have custom rails made. If your interested in this route just let me know. CM

 

well after seeing how much new rails cost I would be interested in going the custom route. CM if you know someone who does this or you do feel free to pm me

 

Sent a PM

 

have you checked for a vacuum leak?...a bad enough leak can cause rough idle and possibly a stall. Use an unlite propane canister (like the one used on camping grills) and hold it next to all the vac lines (esp the one to the brake booster), if you hear a surge in throttle while doing this, you found your leak.

EDIT: vac leak wouldn't go away after 5min of driving...that's what I get for speed reading.

 

I have the plastic fuel rails on mine and I'm sure you do too Laramie, but I have often wondered if they are plastic all the way through or just plastic coated aluminum? I have trouble believing that the plastic would hold up to 13 years of pressurized gas going through them and the heat of the engine bay without them giving out. Mine don't have the pressure connector unfortunately. Can't test fuel pressure if I ever need to.

 

Just a thought I had could an 02 sensor cause this problem when I got the duals put on I drove it about 45 min the no pipes and the sensors wire tied behind the manifolds so they didn't scrape, it did this before but it seems to be much worse now, it's also been a little colder so I don't know if this would affect it at all.

 

Mine was a little too flimsy when I took it off for the plenum job to be plastic covered aluminum....

 

Neither Aluminum or Copper is certified / approved for pipe style fuel rails or fuel feed-lines. It will work harden and develop stress cracks over time. Solid billet Al and extrusions are acceptable however for fuel rails and fuel blocks only. Not intended for fuel injection fuel delivery lines.

What is the material that composite fuel rails are made out of? It has to be both fuel and heat resistant as well as meeting burst tests and burn tests, UV tests, temp cycling tests, mechanical shock and vibration tests, salt tests and more.

If someone knows what these "plastic" fuel rails are made out of please post it here. I am very curious to read what the material is as I have never seen plastic fuel rails before nor heard of plastic fuel rails. Just curious that's all.

The coating on the metal fuel rails is a powder coated type of coating. It is not very thick either. The MIL thickness on that looks very thin on mine. It has to be thin so that the I.D. and O.D. are not grossly affected by paint thickness and go out of tolerance.

 

are you throwing any codes. if its the up stream 02sensor unhook negative, unplug upstream sensor, turn key over for 20 seconds, hook negative back up, drive 60 mph, then see if it still does it, and if it does its not the 02sensor.