Start-up idle issues driving me crazy
#81
10-28-2009, 04:47 PM
To save yourself some money, or at least to try to anyway, here's what I want you to do.
-remove the CKPS sensor and clean it and inspect it.
-check the wires and the harness for damage such as nicks or moisture in connector.
To remove it:
What you will need for tools:
3/8 in drive
1/2 socket
one u-joint
one long extension
two short extensions
mineral oil
-remove the neg bat cable
-remove the CKPS harness- it is located in the back of the driver side head area on mine. Just feel for where it is going.
-remove your air intake assy
-sit in the passenger side of the motor or, if your too big, you may find you have to either lay over the motor or, off to the pass side fender. I like crouching inside the passenger side to do this.
-reach around the valve cover head
-aim for the tranny fill tube. You will have to do this blind as it can't be seen so, you have to go by feel.
-feel for the two sensor bolts -one is on the left side of the tranny fill tube while the other is on the right
-I use the long extension on the bolt that is on the left side of the fill tube along with a shorty coupled to the u-joint. Basically, anyway will work so long as you can keep the socket on it and your able to use the drive without interference.
-with your right hand on the bolt, bring your left hand to meet the right.
-couple the drive to the u-joint and break it loose.
-repeat for the other fastener.
Now, this is very important. When you go to pull it out, use a gentle rocking motion while pulling up. If it feels like it is not coming out- STOP. Get some mineral oil and flow it into the seal. WD-40 does not work well for this application by the way nor penetrating oils.
Ok, now what you want to pay attention to is whether or not, your pulling the seal out with the sensor. That is what binds the sensor and makes it difficult to remove sometimes. If that's happening, you will have to let it come out vs. trying to push it back in. Reason is, when it comes out and you go to put it back in with the sensor partially inside, the seal will roll on itself and not seat into the bell housing lip. It will fall inside the bell housing at which point, you will have to then fish it out.
Now that the sensor is out you can inspect it. Look for cracks in the composite structure - this is the epoxy case material and, it is black. Note the harness end for moisture, cracks in the connector shell, bent pins, damage to the cabling such as dry rot, cracks, nicks, cuts, melted insulation, squashing etc.
- If all checks out, clean it.
- Apply mineral oil to all sides of the sensor minus the face.
Now your ready to install it.
- if the seal has come out, you must place it back into the hole. There is a groove where it seats. Make sure it's in correctly and it's not cockeyed.
- Apply mineral oil to the inside of the seal 100%.
- with your right hand, feel for the upper bolt hole- the one on the right.
- with the sensor in your left hand, meet your right hand and hold the sensor.
- feel for the rubber seal with your left hand.
- Align the sensor tip into the hole by feeling the tip and hole with the left hand.
- Rock the sensor until it begins to go into the opening. Use gentle force to prevent pushing in the seal.
- Once it starts to go in, keep wiggling it side to side. Pushing straight down can lead to friction at the seal thus pushing it in. Even with mineral oil, at least in my experience, it's a firm fit. I pushed my seal into the bell housing so, I know first hand what that's all about because I had that happen to me.
Once it's in all the way, now it's time to simply reinstall the two fasteners and torque them down and reconnect the wire harness etc, and fire it up.
Try that first before buying a new one.
NOTE: -apply mineral oil to the seal and the sensor!!!
-remove the CKPS sensor and clean it and inspect it.
-check the wires and the harness for damage such as nicks or moisture in connector.
To remove it:
What you will need for tools:
3/8 in drive
1/2 socket
one u-joint
one long extension
two short extensions
mineral oil
-remove the neg bat cable
-remove the CKPS harness- it is located in the back of the driver side head area on mine. Just feel for where it is going.
-remove your air intake assy
-sit in the passenger side of the motor or, if your too big, you may find you have to either lay over the motor or, off to the pass side fender. I like crouching inside the passenger side to do this.
-reach around the valve cover head
-aim for the tranny fill tube. You will have to do this blind as it can't be seen so, you have to go by feel.
-feel for the two sensor bolts -one is on the left side of the tranny fill tube while the other is on the right
-I use the long extension on the bolt that is on the left side of the fill tube along with a shorty coupled to the u-joint. Basically, anyway will work so long as you can keep the socket on it and your able to use the drive without interference.
-with your right hand on the bolt, bring your left hand to meet the right.
-couple the drive to the u-joint and break it loose.
-repeat for the other fastener.
Now, this is very important. When you go to pull it out, use a gentle rocking motion while pulling up. If it feels like it is not coming out- STOP. Get some mineral oil and flow it into the seal. WD-40 does not work well for this application by the way nor penetrating oils.
Ok, now what you want to pay attention to is whether or not, your pulling the seal out with the sensor. That is what binds the sensor and makes it difficult to remove sometimes. If that's happening, you will have to let it come out vs. trying to push it back in. Reason is, when it comes out and you go to put it back in with the sensor partially inside, the seal will roll on itself and not seat into the bell housing lip. It will fall inside the bell housing at which point, you will have to then fish it out.
Now that the sensor is out you can inspect it. Look for cracks in the composite structure - this is the epoxy case material and, it is black. Note the harness end for moisture, cracks in the connector shell, bent pins, damage to the cabling such as dry rot, cracks, nicks, cuts, melted insulation, squashing etc.
- If all checks out, clean it.
- Apply mineral oil to all sides of the sensor minus the face.
Now your ready to install it.
- if the seal has come out, you must place it back into the hole. There is a groove where it seats. Make sure it's in correctly and it's not cockeyed.
- Apply mineral oil to the inside of the seal 100%.
- with your right hand, feel for the upper bolt hole- the one on the right.
- with the sensor in your left hand, meet your right hand and hold the sensor.
- feel for the rubber seal with your left hand.
- Align the sensor tip into the hole by feeling the tip and hole with the left hand.
- Rock the sensor until it begins to go into the opening. Use gentle force to prevent pushing in the seal.
- Once it starts to go in, keep wiggling it side to side. Pushing straight down can lead to friction at the seal thus pushing it in. Even with mineral oil, at least in my experience, it's a firm fit. I pushed my seal into the bell housing so, I know first hand what that's all about because I had that happen to me.
Once it's in all the way, now it's time to simply reinstall the two fasteners and torque them down and reconnect the wire harness etc, and fire it up.
Try that first before buying a new one.
NOTE: -apply mineral oil to the seal and the sensor!!!
Last edited by cmckenna; 10-28-2009 at 04:54 PM. Reason: Forgot to tell him to lube the seal prior to installation
#83
10-29-2009, 12:04 AM
#85
10-29-2009, 12:21 AM
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