Front Brake Question, Pads scraping rotors
#1
08-25-2009, 05:08 PM
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Front Brake Question, Pads scraping rotors
I noticed the other day that after driving even a short while my wheels were warm. That seemed odd to me. I suspected the brakes were causing this.
I pulled off the tire and turned the rotor. I noticed there is a bit of "resistance" there when I do so. First question...how much resistance should there be (if any) when I turn the rotor.
I suspect that this next question is a dumb one, but I'll ask anyway. The front pads are actually lightly scraping the rotor when I turn it. Second question is what should be done. I'm assuming that there should be no contact between the pads and the rotor when the truck is in park. Given that, I'm thinking that the calipers need to be rebuilt or replaced. I noticed the the bleeder screw on one caliper is broken, so it might be easier to replace that caliper all together.
Last question, after I replace this stuff, I'll need to bleed the brakes. Anyone have luck with the one-man bleeder kits?
thanks,
pf
I pulled off the tire and turned the rotor. I noticed there is a bit of "resistance" there when I do so. First question...how much resistance should there be (if any) when I turn the rotor.
I suspect that this next question is a dumb one, but I'll ask anyway. The front pads are actually lightly scraping the rotor when I turn it. Second question is what should be done. I'm assuming that there should be no contact between the pads and the rotor when the truck is in park. Given that, I'm thinking that the calipers need to be rebuilt or replaced. I noticed the the bleeder screw on one caliper is broken, so it might be easier to replace that caliper all together.
Last question, after I replace this stuff, I'll need to bleed the brakes. Anyone have luck with the one-man bleeder kits?
thanks,
pf
#2
08-25-2009, 05:21 PM
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Light resistance is normal, but you should still be able to spin the rotor with one hand...if you have to use both hands or a pry bar between the lug bolts, something is wrong, but it could just be debris around the caliper piston. Get everything cleaned up before you go to the trouble of rebuilding or replacing. If you aren't loosing fluid or pressure, the bleed screw probably isn't causing any trouble, but I would probably fix it anyway.
The one man bleeder systems work pretty well...but I there is a bleed pattern you are supposed to follow...I think you start with the brake farthest from the master cylinder i.e. passenger rear first >> driver rear >> passenger front >> driver front last. Also, make sure you have the engine running when you bleed the brakes...otherwise the pedal will be soft b/c the vacuum assist wasn't helping during the bleed process.
The one man bleeder systems work pretty well...but I there is a bleed pattern you are supposed to follow...I think you start with the brake farthest from the master cylinder i.e. passenger rear first >> driver rear >> passenger front >> driver front last. Also, make sure you have the engine running when you bleed the brakes...otherwise the pedal will be soft b/c the vacuum assist wasn't helping during the bleed process.
#3
08-26-2009, 10:29 AM
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sticking caliper/collapsed brake line will cause it to grab like that. light scraping is normal but resistance means that the caliper is sticking. when you bleed the brakes make sure you keep an eye on the master cylinder. if you let it run empty then you will be bleeding for quite a while because as soon as it gets empty it will suck a lot of air into the lines.
