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intake gasket help

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Old Aug 30, 2009 | 09:26 PM
  #71  
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heres a bad pic I took
 
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 10:44 AM
  #72  
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I have posted a method for doing the intake here: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...uestion-2.html Just scroll down a few posts.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 11:27 PM
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I pulled the bearings today, they were fried. On the #3 cap it was completely missing the bottom bearing. The crank is fine I had a machinist check it out he said to just polish it up before I put the new bearings in. The crank turns over great now, the cam bearings are not seized. I put a drill on the oil pump to flush it out with new oil, and I'm going to flush the whole engine somehow. I was told I can pull the coil wire and flush it that way, but I dont want to spin the engine with anti freeze still on the bearings.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 11:50 PM
  #74  
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Polishing your crank correctly without doing more damage to it requires pulling the crank out and taking it to a machine shop and having it done. Then have it checked for out of round and you will want to plastigage it to make sure you are within tolerances.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 12:25 AM
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anyone
 
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 12:33 AM
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Who told you about this so-called flush method and pulling the coil? That's not going to work to rid of ANY fluid in the combustion chamber. If there's any fluids left inside the chambers, you will need to either vac it out- not using compressed shop air as compressed air contains TONS of H20, AND OIL along with other contaminants such as dirt, rust and more. It needs to be vac-d out and evaporated out of every cylinder along with fixing the intake leak.

The other thing is this: what about all that antifreeze that ended up in the oil? That is a big issue and, if you continue to run in that condition, your going to end frying that motor for good. Seized bearings will be the least of your issues.

That leak needs to be fixed first followed by the spent bearings. Once all is buttoned back up, you need to chemically flush all the AF out by using an appropriate solvent in an oil base. It needs to be broken down chemically first, then drained into the oil pan and finally evacuated from the oil pan using suction followed by a chem rinse. Then, you can put clean motor oil in and be on your way providing that the intake leak is fixed.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 12:49 AM
  #77  
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Intake is fixed, I never saw/smelled antifreeze in the oil before but the week before I did the intake it was real bad, almost stalling out while driving. There was way to much coolant in there to have leaked in during the 2 minutes I had it running since. I lost half a gallon of antifreeze in a couple weeks.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 09:09 AM
  #78  
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I am not understanding something: didn't you state that when you pulled the oil pan- just recently, that you saw AF in the oil? So, was this AF left over from before / prior to doing the intake? Also, didn't you state that FLUID was in the combustion chambers?

If it was stalling out, coolant was entering the chambers thus snuffing out the burn so-to-speak. That's either a massive head gasket leak or a intake leak. I had mentioned that before. For it to use up that much coolant in that short amount of time means that there's a bad leak someplace and usually, nine times out of ten- it's a blown head gasket.

If that's the case, that will have to be fixed too. The more water that goes into the oil pan, the higher the level becomes in the pan. When that happens, the crank splashes in this mix thus causing it to foam. When it foams, it's now got air mixed into it which is a real problem since the oil pump is not intended to pump air but fluids only. As a result, the pump loses it's prime, no oil is pumped and the pump overheats and fails. You lose your pump and your engine seizes. In mild cases, it starves the motor of oil. First thing to go are the bearings.

In your case, your bearings were starved of oil or, perhaps this happened when you let the oil get dangerously low. Although, it used to run after refilling the oil as you stated before so, I don't think that was the root cause for this bearing failure / rotational semi- seized state although, I am sure it did not help.

I believe that the root cause is either a blown head gasket or a leaking intake gasket thus resulting in coolant in your oil.

If it were a blown intake gasket, that would lead to coolant being sucked into the intake ports, mixing with a/f mixture and would end up being blown out the exhaust system. However, if the coolant is also leaking into the lifter valley, it ends up draining down into the oil pan mixing with oil thus creating the same exact failure mode: oil starving / pump failure / engine seize.

In my opinion, the source for coolant ending up in the oil and combustion chambers is either a blown head or intake gasket.
 

Last edited by cmckenna; Sep 1, 2009 at 09:40 AM.
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 01:44 PM
  #79  
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I didn't suspect a head gasket because I didn't see it burning white smoke, only once in a blue moon I'd get a small puff, same with oil. I knew the intake was gone because my exhaust tips were real sooty and a lot of power loss. I'll look into doing the head gaskets.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 01:14 AM
  #80  
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My bearings are supposto be in tomorrow, I had a engine builder look at it he said the crank is not damaged and to just polish it up with some crocus cloth before I put the bearings in so I hope I can find some tomorrow. He also told me to run it for about 5 mins then change the oil and let it cool down. Im going to try to get it put back together tomorrow, I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thankyou very much for all the help I appreciate it.
 
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