my trucks a 2000 1500 CC 4x4 318 46RE trans 231HD tcase if any of that matters.

but if its an intermitant problem, and testing it while running wouldnt the ckps be showing the proper voltage?


and to make things easier on you, i do have the cop of the FSM from the merry christmas thread here on df.

i looked through it but couldnt find any diagnostics.

also I am fairly mechanically inclined and ASE certified in brakes, I also graduated from a NATEF certified automotive program in HS.

I just dont know how to go about diagnosing my problem, since it is truely a random incident(sp?) and that are no codes present, or pending.

I'll go check the FSM i got for the proper voltage, and I'll have to check it tommorrow after i get home from work.


and what do you mean about testing the battery? could I just go to advance or autozone and have them load test the battery, or do i have to test it with a meter and hit the starter?

Im all for the easiest way possible, as advance and autozone are literally about 2 miles form my house.

 

I did take note on that and yes, I did see some of your instructions in the DIY section for a leveling kit. During my reading of your instructions, I thought to myself, this person is mechanically inclined.

Electronics is a whole different ball of wax and is way more fine detail oriented than mechanical. This is why it takes a lot more patience to deal with these problems. Mechanical issues are easier in my opinion to deal with as it's either working or not or worn to the point of gross defect and being audible.

I would recommend that you take a class in electronics to compliment your mechanical abilities. One without the other is a handicap in my opinion. I went to college for Mechanical Engineering in fact but, ended up working in Aerospace and Defense electronics and no mechanical- go figure.

Ok, back on topic:

We have to test that CKPS no matter what. It's part of a process of elimination and, even though, to you, it seems as if it was running, it would not show. But, such is not the case. You see, depending on the programming at the PCM, it may or may not trigger a shut down case immediately, in fact, I know for a fact that it does not. Both the CPS and CKPS can error to a degree WITHOUT tripping the PCM to execute an auto shut down command.

SO, this is why I said to monitor it closely, and do not take your eyes off the meter for a second. In that second, you could miss that 3 volt swing where, it dips down to 2 VDC in split second.

It may dip down several times without triggering a shut down event. But, when it does crap out, you may catch a no-voltage condition. This would be a complete drop out which would definitely trigger the auto shut down command.

 

ya, i know what you mean, ive got an understanding of elctricity, and i kno what ohms, volts and amp are, though testing something like this is sorta like being blind, you have no clue where youre going.

I know how to use a DVOM, but how to test things other than a battery are vague to me, as theres many methods to test one component.

i know that testing something like the ckps you have to be in ac voltage, as the nothces in the flew plate trigger the magnet of the sensor, which produces a ac voltage, as does the alt. it is my understanding that the ckps is a hall effect sensor correct?


anyways back on topic...
should i test the ckps before the connector and after it? to rule out any loose connection?

youre my only hope outside of taking this to a shop(which i dont have funds for) to getting this thing fixed, as i have no clue where to start.

since it seems that i just dont have the proper documentation on this ASD circuit.


also you mentioned somethign about putting the meter on the battery and starting it.
how should I do this, as i believe this is the first place to start.


also, i did notice on my pcm that it was reflashed at the dealer with the factory authorized update, so i dont know if that has anythign to do with it, or if it helps any.

 

I know this is a completely random post (mine), But I had a friend that had an 03 Tiburon that did this and it turned out to be a bad ground wire coming off of the fuse box. We would have to wiggle this to get it to start after it cut out.

Electrical problems are a pain in the ***, I should know, as I sign off many problems as could not duplicate and the on the next flight the damn problem come back, that's when I send the problem to the tweaks and laugh at them as I sit back and smoke.

 

I kinda read thru this fast. Not sure if the CPS was changed. My read is that it could be an intermittent CPS.

When you turn the key to on, the ASD and Fuel pump relays turn on for a few seconds. The fuel pump runs for a couple of seconds. The PCM is looking for info from the CPS and Cam sensor. If it does not see the signal, it shutsdown the ASD. This causes the ignition to die, no coil, no injectors, no fuel pump.

When you crank the engine, the PCM reads the signals and turns on the ASD, the engine now can start. If the signal goes out, the ASD shutsdown.

This is how I understand the system. I would really check out the CPS.

 

We have already covered that but, thanks anyway. If you go through the post, I had listed everything that affects that circuit and am having him go through one component at a time starting with the CKPS first as this was the one when removed and cleaned, it ran fine for a month before acting up again.

This is why we are starting with the CKPS first. Next up will be measuring the output of the CPS in both operational and non-operational modes.

 

cmckenna, did you get the voltage specs on that? or do you happen to know where i can find them?

 

004x41500,


The next time you have this shutdown and gauges go crazy, disconnect the CKPS at the harness. Turn key to on but DO NOT try to start the engine. If your gauges and things that drop off go back to normal or some regain normal operation, replace the CKPS.

 

so you think that disconecting the problem sensor would fool the pcm temporarily? at least long enough to notice the gagues?

EDIT

I went outside to try this when the truck is known to run, and it seems like it might work if/when it shutsdown again.
i just went out and unpluged it to make sure my gagues would still work if it was unplugged, and they do, so it might just work. ill be sure to try that next time it happens. if i dont get it figured out before it happens again.

 

Yes and no. I have specs on what the voltages are TO and FROM the CKPS but, I lost the information of what is set in the program at the PCM. But, that's not a problem because, we really don't care what the limits are at the PCM level, all we need is what the sensor supply is and what it's output is.

To check this:

Tools needed: Voltmeter plain and simple.

Process:

- remove the connector from the CKPS

- check the supply / reference voltage TO the sensor. The process is as follows:

NOTE: do not puncture the insulation on any wire harness. All connections are to be found directly at the sockets, pins or by backprobing methods only.

-----locate the purple and white terminal at the connector

--------place the (+) to this

------------locate the negative (black/tan) and place the (-)lead there

---------------get in the truck and turn the key to <ON>

Obtain the reading at the meter: IT SHOULD BE 5V

NEXT:

Time to check the crank sensor output.

-connect the harness back together

---backprobe the gray / black wire. This is your (+)

-----backbprobe the light blue / black wire. This is your (-)

What is backprobing? It is a term used to describe the method of inserting the meter tips or any probe, flying lead etc into the terminal at the back of the plug. Never insert the probes directly into the wires by poking through the insulation for moisture will enter and cause corrosion. If you absolutely must cheat and do it this way, a suitable sealer is to be used to seal those punctures. Epoxies suited for hi-temp, both solvent and fuel resistant are the only medium that should be used. Some epoxies contain acids and will therefore eat certain types of insulation and metals such as copper (Cu).

Anyway, you can see why it is far easier in the long run to backprobe than to pierce the insulation. In addition to that, it also makes for a better contact point vs. hitting a few loose strands of Cu wire.


Now, where we, oh yes, backprobing. So, now that you have your leads clipped into the back / rear of the connector, it's now time to rotate the engine by hand. We do this vs. trying to watch the meter in real time while it's running. I forgot that this can only be achieved with a data logger and then we would play it back very slowly to see what's going on.

Anyway, what you want to do here is to simply place a breaker bar or, even a 1/2 inch drive on your crank pulley and rotate it very very slowly.

Your looking for a voltage of .3 to 5 VAC If it falls out of range, R&R- remove and replace.

That's it. And, to answer your question about it being a Hall type of sensor; yes it is and, yes it is AC.