Engine troubles? Help ASAP please.
#81
#83
#84
I did take note on that and yes, I did see some of your instructions in the DIY section for a leveling kit. During my reading of your instructions, I thought to myself, this person is mechanically inclined.
Electronics is a whole different ball of wax and is way more fine detail oriented than mechanical. This is why it takes a lot more patience to deal with these problems. Mechanical issues are easier in my opinion to deal with as it's either working or not or worn to the point of gross defect and being audible.
I would recommend that you take a class in electronics to compliment your mechanical abilities. One without the other is a handicap in my opinion. I went to college for Mechanical Engineering in fact but, ended up working in Aerospace and Defense electronics and no mechanical- go figure.
Ok, back on topic:
We have to test that CKPS no matter what. It's part of a process of elimination and, even though, to you, it seems as if it was running, it would not show. But, such is not the case. You see, depending on the programming at the PCM, it may or may not trigger a shut down case immediately, in fact, I know for a fact that it does not. Both the CPS and CKPS can error to a degree WITHOUT tripping the PCM to execute an auto shut down command.
SO, this is why I said to monitor it closely, and do not take your eyes off the meter for a second. In that second, you could miss that 3 volt swing where, it dips down to 2 VDC in split second.
It may dip down several times without triggering a shut down event. But, when it does crap out, you may catch a no-voltage condition. This would be a complete drop out which would definitely trigger the auto shut down command.
Electronics is a whole different ball of wax and is way more fine detail oriented than mechanical. This is why it takes a lot more patience to deal with these problems. Mechanical issues are easier in my opinion to deal with as it's either working or not or worn to the point of gross defect and being audible.
I would recommend that you take a class in electronics to compliment your mechanical abilities. One without the other is a handicap in my opinion. I went to college for Mechanical Engineering in fact but, ended up working in Aerospace and Defense electronics and no mechanical- go figure.
Ok, back on topic:
We have to test that CKPS no matter what. It's part of a process of elimination and, even though, to you, it seems as if it was running, it would not show. But, such is not the case. You see, depending on the programming at the PCM, it may or may not trigger a shut down case immediately, in fact, I know for a fact that it does not. Both the CPS and CKPS can error to a degree WITHOUT tripping the PCM to execute an auto shut down command.
SO, this is why I said to monitor it closely, and do not take your eyes off the meter for a second. In that second, you could miss that 3 volt swing where, it dips down to 2 VDC in split second.
It may dip down several times without triggering a shut down event. But, when it does crap out, you may catch a no-voltage condition. This would be a complete drop out which would definitely trigger the auto shut down command.
#85
Well guys, it still continues to happen. Though less often, its still happening.
When it did it last time, i decided to record what happens when i turn the key on, or just leave it on.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ys86DgdvUtk
does that help any?
and its shuts off as if i just turn the key off.
EDIT 12/22/09:
well i believe i finally fixed the problem.
i managed to get a computer from a local junkyard out of a 2000 with the 368AE service tag on it, for $75, and when it died on me last week, i plugged the pcm i got into the truck, and bam started right and havent had a problem since... im still keeping my finger crossed. but if it dies again, im gonna replace the crank sensor. i know i know, i shouldnt just replace parts, but in my opinion replacing the parts just means i know that their good. ayways, for anyone having this problem, it may or may not be the computer, but if your in my case, and got a really good deal on a computer then go ahead and try,be sure to ask them if you can bring it back if its not the right one, or doesnt work though. i can take it back if it doesnt work.
When it did it last time, i decided to record what happens when i turn the key on, or just leave it on.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ys86DgdvUtk
does that help any?
and its shuts off as if i just turn the key off.
EDIT 12/22/09:
well i believe i finally fixed the problem.
i managed to get a computer from a local junkyard out of a 2000 with the 368AE service tag on it, for $75, and when it died on me last week, i plugged the pcm i got into the truck, and bam started right and havent had a problem since... im still keeping my finger crossed. but if it dies again, im gonna replace the crank sensor. i know i know, i shouldnt just replace parts, but in my opinion replacing the parts just means i know that their good. ayways, for anyone having this problem, it may or may not be the computer, but if your in my case, and got a really good deal on a computer then go ahead and try,be sure to ask them if you can bring it back if its not the right one, or doesnt work though. i can take it back if it doesnt work.
Last edited by 004x41500; 12-22-2009 at 09:22 PM.
#86
Join Date: Jul 2009
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Wow, I was wondering what happened to you. I missed the end result here. Looks like the root cause was a bad PCM.
Yeah, see, this you'd never have found no matter how much testing was done. This was internal to the PCM where it would just drop out and power down without warning thus the reason for the NO BUSS errors.
Glad to hear things worked out. Time to note this as a failure mode as well.
May have been a bad cap in the power section that had dried up or was damaged from a voltage spike thus not holding a charge / discharging thus it would just power off.
Good for you,
CM
Yeah, see, this you'd never have found no matter how much testing was done. This was internal to the PCM where it would just drop out and power down without warning thus the reason for the NO BUSS errors.
Glad to hear things worked out. Time to note this as a failure mode as well.
May have been a bad cap in the power section that had dried up or was damaged from a voltage spike thus not holding a charge / discharging thus it would just power off.
Good for you,
CM
#87
I enjoyed reading the posts between the two of you (mainly)...I am going through something similar with my 05 dakota. The advice I received was that it could be a bad PCM, or that it needs to be reflashed.
I am at the point where every sensor could be bad or have a clogged cat, bad EGR, faulty ASD....I will be checking the ASD relay to get started on some of the smaller things I can handle. I am limited on knowledge for testing, mostly proceduraly...and limited on tools. If interested here is the thread I started for my dilemma. Thanks again for the helpful posts!
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...g-sensors.html
I am at the point where every sensor could be bad or have a clogged cat, bad EGR, faulty ASD....I will be checking the ASD relay to get started on some of the smaller things I can handle. I am limited on knowledge for testing, mostly proceduraly...and limited on tools. If interested here is the thread I started for my dilemma. Thanks again for the helpful posts!
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...g-sensors.html