Can anyone tell me how to adjust the transmission bands?

From reading this I have now gathered that I should replace NOT REMOVE the ball-check valve from the tranny cooler line?

 

One is on the left side of the trans, behind the shift linkages. The other is under the pan. You loosen them up, then tighten them to the specified torque, then you have to back them out again a specific number of turns. The initial torque and the number of turns changed almost every year. A Haynes manual lists them all. I don't have mine here at work.

Just make sure that the ball-check valve is completely clean EVERY time you change your fluid. Also make sure there's a magnet or two on the inside of your trans pan.

 

Can I just disassemble the check valve and clean it good with parts/contact cleaner?

And from the sound of it, it sounds like the you have to drop the oil pan to access the bands....?

 

Just remove it and let it soak in solvent (carb cleaner, mineral spirits, etc) for a while. Clean what you can reach, and then blow it out with compressed air. That should take care of it.

And yes, you have to drop the transmission oil pan to get to the one band adjustment. It's reccomended to adjust them when you change the fluid and filter cause you have to drop the pan to change the filter anyway. The adjustment is a pain in the ***, but it's necessary.

 

A friend of mine, after ending a tranny 's life because of a sticky check valve, has eliminated it from the system. No problems so far and its been six months. Just letting you know.

 

I've seen it go both ways on these POS trannys. Some work perfectly fine with the check valve gone, some completely drain down over just a couple hours. Personally, it's not worth the risk to me.

Didn't matter for me, my pump literally exploded while going down the road. $2k later, I have a 1-ton 5-speed in the truck, so it ain't gonna do it again.

 

The plenum gskt is located under the intake. If you saw no oil residue, u should be fine. But keep a check on it. If the plenum blows, ( it prolly will), you will see a thin layer of oil in the throttle body, and it will spark knock going up hills. On mine it covered the back plug on pass side with burnt oil and fouled it out, not to mention it burnt up two cat converters.

 

Thanks, I'm gonna double check that tonight. I got a "rough idle" code saturday and it listed a dirty throttle body, or a vaccum line leak as possible culprits. Turned the light off, hasn't come back on since, but I'll still be checking it tonight anyway.

 

.
Nothing like visual aids...

I changed out my speed sensor last night, and thought I'd add up a few pics showing the location, and what one looks like gummed up with shavings, and this was only at 53K miles. Our truck seems to hunt for the right gear, and I'm hoping that this cures it. Band adjustment and fluid/filter change is next. Gotta baby these trannies so they will last.

Located near the rear of the trans... before the T-Case adapter. It's the tan colored sensor in this pic.





.