So they did an audiotopsy on it?

I'm going to upgrade the rear speakers to the Alpine SPR-17C 5.25" speakers that are rated at 90W RMS because the ones in there now distort before the fronts do. I was going to go to 6.5s, but the hole will need to be opened up and the port in the door panel is too small anyway. Not worth the hassle. I think having speakers matched for ratings will balance the system out fine.

Crunch is a well-known brand. The same Company also makes MBQuart, Maxxsonics, HiFonics and Autotek. The amp has a 1 year factory warranty and the ebay seller is an authorized dealer with almost 90,000 eBay sales.

Thanks for all the feedback, guys.

 

I know this thread is basically already finished, but I just wanted to say one thing...

I don't know what audio shops you went to, or what Best Buy or Circuit City you went to, but 200-400% markup is a gross exaggeration.

The highest markup I've seen on car audio items at my Best Buy has been in the neighborhood of 100%.

 

Yeah, I looked at BB and their prices were only about 20-30% higher than what I found on eBay for the same thing. The problem with BB is that I looked on the website and there were only 3 4-channel amps available that weren't online only and not much of a selection either way. I found an eBay seller locally with both the speakers and the amp I wanted at a good price ($207 shipped) and they'll be here on Friday just in time for my weekend install.

 

I generally never install amps that put out more rms than the speakers are rated for? that the easyiest way to blow your speaker.....this means at medium to high volumes you are already stedily overpowering your speakers and they are more likely to overheat rms is thew continuos power output not the max you can go over on the max but not rms level..... the actual rule of thumb is get speakers that are rated higher rms output than the rms rating of the amp..... the other way is like putting a v8 in a truck behind a wimpy v6 tranny (sorry for poor analogy).
I usually go with a good 400w 4 channel amp (50-60watts rms per speaker) for my mids and highs....if you do this and put a small sealed subwoofer and seperate amp you have the ability to better adjust you sound to your liking and play at 130db and still sound great..... see the trick is if you just throw a high power amp and speakers in it will play loud but its going to resinate very bad (nasty vibration) and it will distort at loud volumes .
This is because of the encolures (door panels and such) having air leaks and very poor harmonics when handling bass and also the fact that most highend mids and highs are designed for just that MIDS AND HIGHS when push any bass throuh them it greatly degrades the quality....
just about all professional sounds systems use either passive or non passive crossovers to do this the achive super loud clean realistic sound that travels far and sounds great at all volumes Most of your amps today have the crossovers built in because of this....you just turn on the highpass and set it to cut any bass out under say 180hrz and set the one on your sub amp to low pass and also around 180 hrz.....then adjust the gains seperatly so it sounds best at your normal listening level....(as far as the sub you want at least 150-200watts rms)

Now even though this might sound overcomplicated and like too much if you spend all that money on the more expensive 80wrms amp and higher power speakers you still wont get as good of sound I gauratee it.... I mostly listen to country so dont give me that I dont need a sub for my music bull I always hear.....they use them in band setups and in recording studios for a reason.

I've honestly installed well over 20 systems over the years and found most of this out the hard way before reading up on why and I cant tell you how many different configurations went into my jeep before I was truly happy but I can tell you it was soo powerful it blurred your vision, hurt your ears and popped the side windows out= stalled the engine at lights....and this was with 50watts rms to the mids and highs on a balanced system with two subs that may have been overkill on power themselves but never drowned out the highs. (and I didnt listen to it at those volumes dont ask me why I did it....just because I could play what I want at the beach I guess)

And buy local if your worried about warrantys but if you plan the system right as far as not overpowering speakers you shouldnt need that store warrantee and can just go with the manufactuers warratee and save a third of the money or more.... just my two cents


Whatever you decide to do good luck at I hope the gains seem worth it for at least what you pay....and if you decide to not use a sub try at least cuting the bass at like 80hz with the crossover on the amp....this will help stop the woofer cone from vibrating too much and distorting while tring to produce bass it cant anyway (prevents the amp from wasting its power on the power hungry low bass) and you will be able to listen at much higher volumes and still have that sharp kick in the drum beats (thats around 120hz)

 

its close to 400% on the small stuff like hdmi cables....big stuff like digital home theater projectors (I installed a bunch for friends) is unsually only like 20 to 30% higher.(people are more likely to do their homework on big ticket items) plus they trap you on the cables after you buy the tv.

 

Yeah.. $60 for a 6ft HDMI cable. Monster Cable is overrated anyway.

Best Buy and Office Depot markups are why I like Fry's Electronics. I miss the three of them we have in the Dallas area...
I'm in the mountains now. Only have Radioshack (talk about markup... lolz)

 

You do understand that he works for BB right?

I'm kinda with Augie on the amp choice though, not usually a good idea to put an amp in that's higher than what the speakers can handle. If you are smart about it's OK, but if you let someone else drive your truck, or someone play with the deck, it's a recipe for disaster.

 

lol who works for them?....not me...

 

Go big or go home But in all seriousness. From the sounds of it Miami knows what he's doing hopefully. So I would say what the hell. Why not buy an amp that has a little more RMS than the speakers can handle. My phoenix golds only take 60rms but I give them 150 daily. As long as the high pass is set right and they aren't trying to play sub frequencies he should be fine. My HPF is set to 160hz since I don't have dynamat (or whatever you use) on the door panels yet, mid bass isn't a big issue for me. I let the sub take care of all that for me!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlH3FiMJyM0
Short vid of my old sub. New one is even more BA. Love my Fi

 

I'm sure he does know what he is doing to a point, or quite frankly, there would be no need for this thread. No offense Miami.

You can be over powering your speakers and never know it. You might not catch the distortion/vibration, but it will bite you in the *** later down the road.