If people would read before posting, there would be a lot less confusion around here.
Read above

I'm glad you corrected that, but it was already done.

 

The thing is thats wrong in any configuration even your other build....Even if you are using a stereo that doesnt have rca outputs....Once it goes through an amp the amps power output is all that matters... You cant wire amps in a series and increase the power to any one speaker it just doesn't work that way.

 

Wiring in parallel cuts the final ohms load on the amp in half and wiring in a series doubles it....
I can throw a bunch of links up to confirm it if you want but you can just google it yourself if you want...
and there are component speaker packages that mix 4 ohm speakers with 2 ohm..... It just changes the load the amp sees them as. Its true the sensitivity of the speakers may cause one to be louder than the other if they arent the same though
heres a helpful guide http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm

 

hey guys....this spring i put in new front speakers and an amp and ive never been really happy with it since then, it seems to distort?/sound bad when it is turned up....this is the HU i have
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-1yHTJsl...=detailed_info

i dont have a sub or anything else and my rears are stock, not wantin to change them right now even tho i need to

i have phoenix gold ryval 6.5s and amp, RCA from HU to amp running each side of truck and 18 ga wire from amp to crossovers


heres my amp and the settings, can any of yall tell me how to go about tuning the HU and amp? esp with the EEQ on the HU







thanks

 

well I'm assuming you have the amp set to hp and100hz like the directions say (unless you listen at lower volumes then you can get richer sound by setting to full if you have no subs) and you have to disconnect the rears or they will distort at even moderate volumes (they are 5 watt rms speakers even your hu is overpowering them) plus dynamat (small piece in the center about half the size of the door will be just as effective as covering the whole door BTW) as well as taping off the large ripped open holes normally covered by the door plastic will help.... as far as the eq you cant overboost stuff.....if your going to turn the loudness or bass boost on than make sure any such features on the amp are turned off.....I usually tune by setting the desired volume and then adjusting treble /bass up or eq until I can hear distortion then back it off....
and I doubt you are but if you running like 80 watts rms to the speakers you may
(or may not) see some advantage going with 16G wire.....

 

just to clear up, my fronts are woofer/tweeter, not just one speaker

so, i shouldnt even run my rears at all? the amp is only for the fronts

should i use my HU preset eq or set it at flat and custom tune it?

when should i set #13 on the amp?


all this is jibberish to me pretty much----


EEQ (Easy EQ): The DEH-P3000IB is equipped with a 3-band parametric EQ with 6 preset EQ settings. You can boost or cut each frequency band by +/- 12dB at 2dB intervals. Features of the Easy EQ include:

• Selectable Center Frequencies:
  • Low: 40, 80, 100, or 160 Hz
  • Mid: 200, 500, 1k, or 2k Hz
  • High: 3k, 8k, 10k or 12k Hz
• Preset EEQ Settings: Powerful, Super Bass, Vocal, Natural, Custom, and EQ Flat
• Selectable Q Factors: 2 Narrow, 1 Narrow, 1 Wide, and 2 Wide

Selectable Loudness Levels: Loudness compensates for deficiencies in the low and high frequencies at low volumes. You can choose from three levels of loudness:

• Low: +3.5dB (100Hz), +3dB (10kHz)
• Mid: +10dB (100Hz), +6.5dB (10kHz)
• High: +11dB (100Hz), +11dB (10kHz)

i have a bazooka tube no thooked up right now, whats yall opinions on them?

 

bump.......

 

well for one start by turning off the superbass...even though it will seem to sound weaker at lower volumes after tuning you can turn it up much louder with clean sound..... i wound not use the rears and I would set up the crossover on the amp to high pass and 100 hz....(let the bazooza tube handle the lower end) and start with everything flat on the eq ,turn up to your normal listening level and then start with slowly turning up the mids and highs followed by the 160hz till it sonds the best....its a good idea to play a song you know really well while doing this so you know how the voice and such really sound well... as for the bazooka tub when you make your adjustments to 100 hz or lower in the stereo eq it should effect its sound only really....and set up the bazooka tube as low pass and 160-200 hz if possible should even things out.

 

Sorry, but you're only half right. Wiring in parallel does not change the load. Just like when you wire batteries in parallel, they both remain 12 volts. If you wire a 2 ohm and a 4 ohm speaker in parallel, the amp will see a load of 4 ohms, not 6 or 3, but total output power will be reduced because you will be driving 2 speakers instead of one thereby reducing the available wattage to both. Still, the impedance will be that of the higher ohm speaker. Load is not just the ohms of the circuit, it is also the amperage and wattage. Ohms is static, amperage and wattage are not.

Most amps are designed for balanced loads. Putting a 2 ohm speaker on the same channel pair as a 4 ohm speaker will not only cause unbalanced sound output, but it will eventually cause the amp to fail. I don't know any manufacturer that recommends unbalanced loads for their amps.

 

I trusted crutchfields "outfit my car" search function. I ended up buying a pretty good head unit, the 6.5" rear component speakers (2 ohms, 90 watt RMS ) and 5 1/4" door component speakers (4 Ohms, 60 watts RMS)

Should I send a speaker set back, and match up the ohms?
Any recommendations on a 4 channel amp? I want clean, not loud.

I am planning on adding a powerd woofer later