hello everyone, new to the forum and hoping for help just like everyone else. I have a 98 ram 1500, 5.9, 2wd with 130k. GREAT TRUCK! But over the last 3 years it has been giving this little winter time issue. And keep in mind I live in Charlotte, NC so winter isn't all that. But come about fall every year the truck displays an issue in the morning when it is cooler like I have a dead or weak battery. It won't start, can hear the starter solenoid kick but no turnover. Like a weak battery. I changed the battery 2 years ago as it was the original, but I tell ya, it still had plenty o crank. Just figured it was the easiest solution as it was original. But I still have the problem. Thought I may have a electrical drain so I installed a kill switch. No good. I have since noticed now if I try it 3 or 4 times it starts. I can tell a different sound (click) as to when it will start. Is this related to the starter/solenoid? Maybe a bad connection or old unit?

Help! tired of almost every morning jumping truck for 4 months til it warms back up!

 

see if any of this applies...
my daughter called the other day and said her 4runner wouldn't start. it made one heavy click, but the starter wouldn't spin. her battery was charged and the headlights came on. with headlights on and trying to start, the headlights dimmed only slightly, not heavily like if battery was weak. she tapped on battery terminals - no help. relay/solenoid did not flutter like it does with a weak battery - only one heavy solid click from the starter on each attempt to start.

so she tries about 20 times and finally we get a start and she brings it home. it continues to do the same thing warm or cold. i'd get a start about every 1 out of 10 or 20 tries. i cleaned battery terminals and cables - no help. i removed the starter and tried to run it on the bench - same result. so i took the starter apart to check on the brushes. the brushes were fine, but the slots in the commutator were all gummed up with brush material. i used a small screwdriver to scrape the slots in the comm clean and put it back together. fixed... the commutator bars were shorted together with compacted brush dust.

 

So this has happened twice to me now. Both times after sitting overnight during cold weather (35-45)

When I first get in to start the truck it cranks really slow and if it starts it dies immediately. Then when I tried to start it again today after it died, you know the click you get from a bad starter that wont engage? I got a series of these clicks real fast anytime I put the key in "crank" position.

Both times I removed the negative battery cable and put it back on and it cranks and runs like new. I had the battery tested and all is good.Also all the connectors on and around the battery are clean and tight....

Any ideas?

 

i'm leaning toward weak battery.
how was it tested as good ? load tested (do this) or just voltage check (not good enough) ?

 

I thought weak battery as well.

I had it tested at autozone and they ran every test their machine could do. Then I insisted they try again, all tests good.

I hate to buy a battery if its not the problem, pretty sure that's a non returnable item

 

It could be your starter or, still, it could be your battery. Half the time, they don't know how to test a battery properly. You could have what is called a broken cell connector inside the battery. The battery still reads fine and even charges.

To check: place a DMM across the terminals and place it in the window so you can read it while you hit the starter. Turn the lights on to maintain a load on the battery. Hit the starter and note the voltage level. If it drops off- it's your battery.

If it remains at 12 V or close to that then, it's your starter motor or solenoid going out or, you may also have a partial short.

TO check, get one of those LED test lights or the old kind and put it in series with the Negative battery terminal. If it lights- your system has a partial short. Most likely, the starter Bendix or, it could even be the windings in the motor or, even the alternator motor windings. You can also use the DMM in series to check for current draw.

If you don't have a DMM, bring it in to a shop and have them check it for you.

CM

 

Sounds like your starter could be drawing too much amperage when cold. The armature is tight when cold and loosens up as the engine heats up. If it gunked up and sticking it would do as you described. Jumping the battery just gives it a little extra boost of energy to overcome it.

 

DMM meaning digital multimeter?

Just tested it and the battery read 12.4v not running with the headlights on. When cranked it dropped to 10.4-10.8v then after starting jumped to 14.0v

 

mine did same thing and it ended up being the starter

 

i bought at a starter rebuild kit on ebay for 30 bucks comes with new plunger bigger copper pieces , its better than buying a new one for sure