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Engine Too Cold For Too Long?

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  #11  
Old 10-13-2009, 07:24 AM
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  #12  
Old 10-13-2009, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Eddielx
Yeah mine does that also..I think a 180 stat also hurts your gas mpg.Its called a cold start loop.

http://vehicle.me.berkeley.edu/Publi...bshaw_ASME.pdf
It sure does. What people don't realize is that the PCM is programmed to use the 200 degree temp as the parameter for normal operation.

When you change that, you also have to reflash the PCM as well in order to set the temp limit twenty degrees lower for a 180 and, 40 degrees for a 160 degree T-stat.

If the PCM is stock and has not been programmed / flashed to accommodate for those changes, the temp sensor voltage reads low and, the PCM runs the engine rich. This can be a real problem as it's in basically, choke mode the entire time it's running. They call this open loop mode. In OL mode, the O2 sensors don't supply feedback to the PCM thus not helping to balance out the rich A/F mixture.

I found this out and, after seeing all the talk about doing this- it's more of a problem that what it's worth. The fact is the engine actually runs better hotter than it does cold for one and secondly, you can get more HP by running hotter and lean as possible than running rich. It also saves on fuel by a lot.

Running rich fouls plugs, ruins CATS, and damages the internal engine components if left in that condition for long periods of time.

Hypertech sells the tuner to flash the PCM over to make it 50 state legal. It's just that all the third party places that sell the damn T-stats themselves fail to inform the buyer of the flash bit.

I have a 180 Hyper- T-stat and I have a SCT tuner but, the SCT tuner does not compensate for this nor lots of other things as I am now just finding out. Wish I would have known this before buying it.

Anyway, there's two options:

-reprogram the PCM to compensate or
-remove and replace that T-stat with a OEM rated 196-200 degree model and you'll be fine.

CM
 
  #13  
Old 10-13-2009, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by cmckenna
It sure does. What people don't realize is that the PCM is programmed to use the 200 degree temp as the parameter for normal operation.

When you change that, you also have to reflash the PCM as well in order to set the temp limit twenty degrees lower for a 180 and, 40 degrees for a 160 degree T-stat.

If the PCM is stock and has not been programmed / flashed to accommodate for those changes, the temp sensor voltage reads low and, the PCM runs the engine rich. This can be a real problem as it's in basically, choke mode the entire time it's running. They call this open loop mode. In OL mode, the O2 sensors don't supply feedback to the PCM thus not helping to balance out the rich A/F mixture.

I found this out and, after seeing all the talk about doing this- it's more of a problem that what it's worth. The fact is the engine actually runs better hotter than it does cold for one and secondly, you can get more HP by running hotter and lean as possible than running rich. It also saves on fuel by a lot.

Running rich fouls plugs, ruins CATS, and damages the internal engine components if left in that condition for long periods of time.

Hypertech sells the tuner to flash the PCM over to make it 50 state legal. It's just that all the third party places that sell the damn T-stats themselves fail to inform the buyer of the flash bit.

I have a 180 Hyper- T-stat and I have a SCT tuner but, the SCT tuner does not compensate for this nor lots of other things as I am now just finding out. Wish I would have known this before buying it.

Anyway, there's two options:

-reprogram the PCM to compensate or
-remove and replace that T-stat with a OEM rated 196-200 degree model and you'll be fine.

CM
Well, I'll be damn. Alrighty then Goin' back to stock lol. Good thing it was only $5. Thanks for the help everybody who contributed. I'll post back if I notice any improvements.
 
  #14  
Old 10-13-2009, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by scottnfwi
Yea its under pressure with no leaks,is there a trick to changing the stat? do you have to take of the alternator or move it?

nope, just take the belt off, and unbolt the ac compressor, and move it to the side, and use an extension to get to the housing bolts. its not a hard job, it only took me like 30 mins, and i think all data calls for 1.0hr.
 
  #15  
Old 10-14-2009, 06:27 AM
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sounds like a good project for friday sence i have it off
 
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Old 10-14-2009, 09:18 AM
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ya, its an easy job, provided nothing goes wrong
 
  #17  
Old 10-14-2009, 09:51 AM
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There is a PITA tab on the therm housing you can grind off. It makes putting the housing on/ off MUCH easier.
 
  #18  
Old 10-14-2009, 10:17 AM
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I've run 180 thermostats for over 5 years and never had a problem.
The plugs burn clean, gas milage is from 14 to 21, according to whether the driving is local or on the road.
Oh oh, I forgot.
I did have one problem, a thermostat stuck open.
 
  #19  
Old 10-14-2009, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Twisted Metal
There is a PITA tab on the therm housing you can grind off. It makes putting the housing on/ off MUCH easier.
you know as many therms. as ive replaced here at the dealership, ive never had one give me troubhle with that tab. but then again, i always unbolt the a/c compressor and move it out of the way.
 
  #20  
Old 10-14-2009, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by scottnfwi
sounds like my truck,the cel comes on after it has run awile and the temp never gets above 160 and my heater does not blow out hot air but luke warm,could it be as simple as a warmer t-stat?
Yes. Change it back and you'll be fine.
 


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