Engine Too Cold For Too Long?
#1
Engine Too Cold For Too Long?
I've posted about this a while back, but my symptoms still haven't been solved. My check engine light continues to come on after about three days of me clearing the code, saying "Engine Too Cold For Too Long". I replaced my thermostat with a Hypertech 180 degree high flow and replaced my coolant 50/50. My last post, everybody told me to replace my thermostat because it could be stuck, so I did. But the old thermostat wasn't stuck in the open postition. But I replaced it anyways. My guage seems to still hover around 170 degrees... So my engine is always cold. I even let it warm up, and driving long trips it doesn't fluctuate. Any idea's on whether it could be something else? I don't like to have my CEL on all the time, also considering my "EVAP system large leak detected" code is being thrown too...Dammit.
#2
does it do this all the time, or just in non-summer.
your pcm is expecting the engine to reach its normal orperating temperature, probably around 180-190, within a certain period of time. if it doesn't, then it set the cel 1281, engine cold for too long. that's probably the number you're getting.
some people get this with a 180 t-stat and others don't. it might be the tuning from the superchips or hypertech that allows a modified pcm to ignore it, i don't know, but i do know that almost nobody with hypertech or superchips complains of this.
its also possible this is related to ambient air temp, because people who live up at the north pole (anywhere past tennessee) regularly see extreme cold weather, mention that their truck stays very cold, they have little/no heat, yet they DONT have a cel 1281. so i have a theroy that cooler ambient temps can turn this off.
just as an experiment, put some cardboard in front of your radiator to warm it up to about 180/190 and see if your cel goes off. if so, you're going to have to play around with different ways to try and run a 180. you might find that you can avoid the CEL by blocking a portion of the radiator in cooler weather.
also just by the way, everyone thats ever posted any status about a 160 t-stat reports getting a cel, so it may be a fine line there around 170... if you decide to try another t-stat, get a Stant Superstat for about $10-12.
also just as an experiment, if you had a way to easily and cheaply swap the Intake Air Temp (IAT) sensor, it might/might not change things. if you have access to a scanner, you could check that sensor reading to see if its valid. this sensor is probably too expensive to blindly buy with no good reason. i think its about 30 bucks or more.
your pcm is expecting the engine to reach its normal orperating temperature, probably around 180-190, within a certain period of time. if it doesn't, then it set the cel 1281, engine cold for too long. that's probably the number you're getting.
some people get this with a 180 t-stat and others don't. it might be the tuning from the superchips or hypertech that allows a modified pcm to ignore it, i don't know, but i do know that almost nobody with hypertech or superchips complains of this.
its also possible this is related to ambient air temp, because people who live up at the north pole (anywhere past tennessee) regularly see extreme cold weather, mention that their truck stays very cold, they have little/no heat, yet they DONT have a cel 1281. so i have a theroy that cooler ambient temps can turn this off.
just as an experiment, put some cardboard in front of your radiator to warm it up to about 180/190 and see if your cel goes off. if so, you're going to have to play around with different ways to try and run a 180. you might find that you can avoid the CEL by blocking a portion of the radiator in cooler weather.
also just by the way, everyone thats ever posted any status about a 160 t-stat reports getting a cel, so it may be a fine line there around 170... if you decide to try another t-stat, get a Stant Superstat for about $10-12.
also just as an experiment, if you had a way to easily and cheaply swap the Intake Air Temp (IAT) sensor, it might/might not change things. if you have access to a scanner, you could check that sensor reading to see if its valid. this sensor is probably too expensive to blindly buy with no good reason. i think its about 30 bucks or more.
#3
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#5
Yeah mine does that also..I think a 180 stat also hurts your gas mpg.Its called a cold start loop.
http://vehicle.me.berkeley.edu/Publi...bshaw_ASME.pdf
http://vehicle.me.berkeley.edu/Publi...bshaw_ASME.pdf
#6
if you have a 160 t-stat you should replace with 180 or 195 to get heat.
if you think you have a 180/195, its probably opening too soon or stuck open, and the engine is never reaching proper temp.
#7
I tried putting cardboard in ront of the raditor when i got home today and then took it for a long drive of stop and go and highway. But my heat stayed the same and my gauge stayed the same as before.here is a pic of my gauge after my 8 mile commute.
Last edited by scottnfwi; 04-06-2010 at 06:06 PM.
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#8
I know you've heard it before, but that's where my temp was when my stat was stuck open. try switching to a 195 stat. Also, are you leaking fluid at all? Is the system getting up to pressure?
#9
To the op: many years ago when us old guys were trying to cure pinging one of the "cures" was a 180 stat. Many, many 2001 owners ran into the same problem as you. Apparently, Dodge changed the pcm in 2001 for emissions to not accept colder temps for too long. Those of us with older trucks, don't have the same problem. (The hi-jacker has a different issue).
You may have to go back to 195 to fix it. Just dumb luck I guess cause my 99 loves the 180 stat.
You may have to go back to 195 to fix it. Just dumb luck I guess cause my 99 loves the 180 stat.