Automatic Transmission
#1
10-21-2009, 08:19 AM
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Location: Sarasota, FL
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Automatic Transmission
I have a 2001 1500 4x4 with the 5.9l V8 with 171000 miles. I am not too familer with the automatic transmission and mine is giving me some problems so any help would be wounderful. When the tranny is cold it dosen't engage in gear or it will engage for a few seconds and then come out. My other problem is that it shutters at random times and intervels form mid to higher speeds like 40 to 70. I have plenty of fluid but im not sure how old it is because I just bought the truck about a month ago. Again any help would be wonderful, thanks.
#2
10-21-2009, 10:06 AM
the 2nd gens dont have a powerful reputation with the trannys. look on the forums and you'll find many topics about this.
You know you check the Trans fluid when in neutral right?
as for your problem it sounds like the torque convertor, and do you know if the previous owner put in ATF+4? because ATF3 can damage the transmission
You know you check the Trans fluid when in neutral right?
as for your problem it sounds like the torque convertor, and do you know if the previous owner put in ATF+4? because ATF3 can damage the transmission
#3
10-21-2009, 12:29 PM
#4
10-21-2009, 01:41 PM
#5
10-21-2009, 06:53 PM
Yeah, we all know how honest stealerships are. I'm not saying I'm Mr right, I'm just trying to point out to people to question things and verify for themselves what they hear so they don't get suckered into buying something they don't need.
#6
10-21-2009, 07:06 PM
Legend
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/fluids.html
Last edited by PurplDodge; 10-21-2009 at 07:14 PM.
#7
10-21-2009, 07:25 PM
Shuddering can be caused by any number of things, including:
*Failing tranny mount
*Failing drivertain ujoint[s]
*Weakened motor mount[s]
*Busted belt in tire[s]
*Improperly torqued tire lugs
*Worn ball joints, and other suspension components
If it happens only at certain speeds, I would lean towards a busted belt, or ujoints.
They can both be fine at certain speeds, but once they reach a specific RPM range, that triggers a wobble.
This further weakens them, and eventually they will fail completely, leaving you stranded on the road, or worse.
Better get that taken care of ASAP, when any of the above completely fail on the road, bad things happen.
Depending on your skill level, you should be able to eliminate all but the last from being the cause, or in fact being the culprit, of the shuddering.
Busted belts can be dicey to diagnose, they can easily hide from all but the most skilled of eyes, unless they are far gone and exhibit an obvious bulge [which can be hiding on the backside of the tire].
You need to have them off the ground spinning, looking head on for any noticeable wobble.
If your not well versed in suspension, take it in to a reputable alignment outfit, most will refuse to do an alignment if you have components which need repair/replacing, and they will tell you exactly what needs to be fixed.
But the lugs, tranny/motor mounts and ujoints you should inspect yourself, and determine if they are up to snuff.
*Failing tranny mount
*Failing drivertain ujoint[s]
*Weakened motor mount[s]
*Busted belt in tire[s]
*Improperly torqued tire lugs
*Worn ball joints, and other suspension components
If it happens only at certain speeds, I would lean towards a busted belt, or ujoints.
They can both be fine at certain speeds, but once they reach a specific RPM range, that triggers a wobble.
This further weakens them, and eventually they will fail completely, leaving you stranded on the road, or worse.
Better get that taken care of ASAP, when any of the above completely fail on the road, bad things happen.
Depending on your skill level, you should be able to eliminate all but the last from being the cause, or in fact being the culprit, of the shuddering.
Busted belts can be dicey to diagnose, they can easily hide from all but the most skilled of eyes, unless they are far gone and exhibit an obvious bulge [which can be hiding on the backside of the tire].
You need to have them off the ground spinning, looking head on for any noticeable wobble.
If your not well versed in suspension, take it in to a reputable alignment outfit, most will refuse to do an alignment if you have components which need repair/replacing, and they will tell you exactly what needs to be fixed.
But the lugs, tranny/motor mounts and ujoints you should inspect yourself, and determine if they are up to snuff.
Last edited by xray99; 10-21-2009 at 07:37 PM.
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#8
10-21-2009, 08:02 PM
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They went to ATF+4 because of a shuttering issue with the TC Clutch. It has an additive that addresses that. I understand that aftermarket converters and clutches don't necessarily need the ATF+4 but being that it is a synthetic it is still recommended. Some tranny specialist have used the latest and greatest Dexron product with some success.
#9
10-21-2009, 09:52 PM
they went to atf+4 because of a shuttering issue with the tc clutch. It has an additive that addresses that. I understand that aftermarket converters and clutches don't necessarily need the atf+4 but being that it is a synthetic it is still recommended. Some tranny specialist have used the latest and greatest dexron product with some success.
Last edited by J415; 10-21-2009 at 10:22 PM.
#10
10-21-2009, 10:17 PM
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