Silver, you might want to look at the timing chain tensioner. I have never installed one, and I have read mixed reviews on it. Also on advice from my engine builder, do not consider a gear drive. Not worth the time, money or effort.

 

water pump, timing set.
replace the front oil seal in the timing cover (it might come with timing gasket).
as said, t-stat, water pump bypass hose.
possibly temp sensor on top of manifold
both radiator hoses if they need it.
heater hoses is they need it.
locate the 2 block drain plugs behind engine mounts. drain and flush block.
backflush heater core both ways.

 

Bill White at KRC recommended the JP performance Timing set to me when I asked him about the cam I want to swap in.

If your going to cam it, you can adjust this chain in 2* increments from -8 to +8. The gears are supposedly nitrided on both sprockets. I think it set me back $70.

The black heater tube wouldn't come out of my old pump. had to buy a new one, Luckily, it's a HELP! part and cost about $10.

Incidentally, KRC has an RV cam that's got a .480/.480 lift. Bill put one in his Durango and loved it as his DD. Here was that thread: http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/in...p?topic=9197.0

 

I want to leave my 1.7's in though, mostly to keep cost down. That will limit my cam selection for sure.

 

man, cold weather and coolant don't seem to go well together. a couple years ago i was showing off my air horns and after it idled for about 5 minutes with the hood open (about 40º outside) i noticed that my radiator was leaking where the metal meets the plastic.
can you actually see the weephole on the pump? i think mine has a slow leak from there but i can't see it over the balancer.

 

Silver...
When I did mine I installed the regular pump from O' Riellys and its been several years and working well for now. I had bought a Mopar Performance dual roller chain off ebay and that went on. Any "name brand" dual roller chain should be fine. I had a tensioner, but it looked like a PITA to install and since the truck didn't come with one, I sold it off.
My heater hose tube was showing some signs of rot so I replaced it with the appropriate "help" part and also put on all new hoses and a T-stat because the gasket was leaking as well.
If you have one, changing the fan clutch is a must when installing a water pump..

 

R/T +10 cam, or maybe even just the R/T cam with the added lift. Double check with Mancini Racing, but I believe that the R/T and +10 cams were ground to reuse stock everything else, (pushrods and stamped rocker arms).

Randy Jr. at Harland Sharp told me that if the base circle of a cam is the same height as the base circle of your stock cam, then the stock pushrods and their RR will bolt right in and have the correct lifter preload.

Most cams get their added lift from grinding down the base circle and then changing the profile of the lobes if necessary, which is the reason why Hughes has that core exchange on their more mild cams. In that instance, you'd need custom pushrods to reuse the 1.7s

 

Anyone got a link to the KRC site? I cant find it on Google, and the RV cam is burning a hole in my pocket!

 

it's www.krcperformance.net

they used to be .com

EDIT: the www.krcperformance.com site is up again

 

Is the 206 cam the one you are talking about? Because it is 408/512.