My car wont start after replacing dist and crankshaft sensor and checking all relays and fuses.

My car 2000 stratus 2.5L ES almost sounds like I am using a key without a transponder. Is it possible that the key is not communicating with the ignition? If so, what part would I look at replacing.

I do not have spark or fuel. Car died while driving down the road without notice.

 

I suggest you head on over to the Stratus section.

 

My question was not vehicle specific. I searched for an active ignition problem thread that would be of interest to all.

 

Check all the relays and fuses. Is about all I can say, but you already did that.



I just did a "wont start " search in the Stratus section. And quite a few threads came up. That is a different beast than a "wont start" Ram problem.

 

Is the car in park?.....hey you never know
Why did you change the parts you changed? Was there spark or fuel before you changed those parts? Do you have any interior or gauge lights...alternator not charging your battery? Sorry but kind of hard to even guess what your problem is with such little info..not to mention I have no experience with a Dodge Stratus...good luck to you, I would do as suggested and talk to some guys with the same car as you.

 

Yes
Changed the dist and crank sensor because ASD will shut off pump without two valid signals.

No

yes all lights and gauges work perfectly, although no check engine light ever came on even though I had two error codes.

Car quit while cruising at 35mph.

Bought a code reader even though no check engine lights on. Code I get is P0123 and P0113.

Could a bad TPS stop the fuel pump?

 

Hey RockRam2500,

Just checked email and found this problem is still going on.

Well, I learned a bit about the pin 85-86 connection. I did not know if they were polarity sensitive and I have found that they are not. The relay will work regardless of which is power and which is ground. They seem to be wired, at times, different than what the book shows. That is why testing is important.

Going back, you are or were able to start the engine by jumping pins 30 and 87. If it is still like that, it means that you do not have a problem on those circuits. Pin 30 is a direct battery feed and should have power at all times, regardless of ignition switch position. Pin 87 should not have any power. Pin 87 feeds power to the starter solenoid when the relay is activated. You can check the pin 87 circuit by removing relay, connecting a continuity tester between pin 87 and the wire connection at the starter solenoid. You should have continuity. But, as I state, the circuit is good if you can start the engine by using a jumper.

Where I do find a problem is in your test results of pin 85 and 86. I take it that this is with the relay removed.

"
85 when the key is turned on it has power and when in start position it has power
86 in run position has not power in start position there is power to it "

You cannot have power to both pins at the same time, with the relay removed. One has to be power and one has to be ground.

Correct me if I am wrong, but as I read this on pin 85 there is power with key on and in start. On pin 86 there is no power with key on but there is power in start. If this is yes, there is a problem here.

One pin, normally 86, is the power pin. This pin only gets powered when you turn the key to start. The other pin, normally 85, is the ground. This pin and circuit gets connected to ground only when the transmission is placed in park or neutral.

The way this circuit works is a follows: You turn the key on and nothing happens, no power to pin 86. You turn the key to start, power goes to pin 86, thru the relay coil to pin 85. From pin 85 it goes to ground thru the NSS when transmission is in park or neutral. The starter solenoid is activated and the starter engages.

Let me know if what I read is correct, that you are getting power to both pins. Let me know on this.

 

You need to go to a car specific forum to get some good and accurate information. Normally on these PCM controlled cars the PCM controls the ASD and Fuel relays. Generally, when the engine cranks and it does not read the right information the ASD and fuel relays shut down. So the engine does not get ignition nor fuel.

You will be better helped in the right forum.

 

Let me know if what I read is correct, that you are getting power to both pins. Let me know on this.[/quote]


Yes this is the case:

85 when the key is turned to run position it has power and when in start position it has power-

86 in run position has no power, only in start position is there power to it .

I feel the problem is with the connector at NSS, I replaced the switch when this was initially going on 2 years ago...and to be honest there was a freyed wire on the NSS connector that I soldered back together..it was one of the outside wires (which I believe is just for tail lamps?)

The other issue I saw was the PO cut into the Bypass Jumper that I spliced back together...I would love to see a picture of someones bypass set up (it's located just behind the brake pedal on the fire wall cab side)

The previous owner had relays and cuts and splices into so many of the systems that I removed and have solved except for this issue. He had alarms, bass and lights hooked up every where you can imagine.

I have ordered a new connector for the NSS and a new switch in the mean time $30 gamble, but what the heck.

Lastly there is a wire in the PDC that runs from a fuse directly to the + Battery terminal...pink wire IIRC it is fuse A1 in the PDC...but I will have to wait until it get home to know for sure, its definately one of the 3 in the that section of fuses.

Thanks for your help


**** I haven't had time since last week to play with the wiring since HEYYOU sent me the link for the 95 manual..to follow that pink wire to where it is supposed to be. Ill be looking into that this evening as of now its hooked to where I found it on the + battery post. This truck has been a tough love experience, it's my second RAM, the first was same year and totalled by a drunk driver. Love the truck but this one has been rode hard...it's getting sorted out slowly going to have to post some pics of the before and after soon.

 

Yes this is the case:

85 when the key is turned to run position it has power and when in start position it has power-

86 in run position has no power, only in start position is there power to it .

I feel the problem is with the connector at NSS, I replaced the switch when this was initially going on 2 years ago...and to be honest there was a freyed wire on the NSS connector that I soldered back together..it was one of the outside wires (which I believe is just for tail lamps?)
[/quote]


I think your problem is in the above area. The pin 86 appears to be working correctly. With ignition off and in run, no power. When you turn to start it does have power. That is correct.

Having voltage at pin 85 is not correct. This should be the ground for the circuit. It appears the wire is connected to a power source somewhere. May be related to the frayed wire. I would trace this wire. It should go to the NSS connector. The NSS would then ground it in the park and neutral position.

Disconnect the wiring at the NSS. Then check for power at pin 85. If you still have power then trace back from the connector to the relay. You might disconnect the wiring that you did and check for power again. If the power is gone that is the problem.

When you find that it has no power, connect the wire to a good ground. Then do a continuity test from pin 85 to ground. You should have continuity.

If you do have continuity to ground, insert the relay and try to start the engine. It should start.

Good luck. Let me know the results.