Last time I pulled them off, they were dry, no cracking, but it's been awhile.

 

did you disconnect them? i think all newer truck have abs of some sort (unless you disconnect them). there should be an abs control modual behind the glovebox that you can disconnect if you don't like abs. i know mine is disconnected.

 

It was an option all the way to 2001. 4 wheel ABS That is.

 

that module is behind the knee bolster on 94 to 97 and it's only for RWAL

 

The front grommet on mine is leaking. The MC is on my replace list.
I'm not sure about how far my pedal travels for braking, but I can say that my truck stops VERY well and the wheels will lock up if I slam it. I've left quite a few black lines on dry pavement. It also pulls to the right, but that probably has more to do with the chassis dynamics.

 

There's your problem, A1Cardone..... Used to be a great reman. company, now they sell garbage.

 

Brake pedal stiffness is determined by two things (barring a problem).

1.) Air in the lines
2.) Rear brake shoes

My peddle use to be kind of squishy, whenever my brake line broke behind the gas tank I decided to take the time to put the GMC 3500 dually brake cylinders in. It was worth it. If you're brake shoes are decently worn replace them, if they're not just set them up so that when you go to put the drums back on it's kind of hard to push them on over the shoes. Make sure your adjuster rod can spin freely. Both mine were seized up, I let them soak in PB blaster and then put anti-seize all over them. If you have your rear brakes set up right it will definitely help stiffen up your pedal.

The other thing to do is gravity bleed your brakes.

You do those two things, and barring any problems in the brake system (you said your MC was bad originally) you will have a rock hard bake pedal.

 

Haven't heard that one before, or maybe I have and it was called something else. would you mind explaining that?

 

Sure, it's easy. Just open all your break bleeders at the same time and keep topping off the master cylinder. Don't let it get low or you'll end up sucking in air and you have to start over. Do that for about 8 hours. Then shut the bleeders off in this order:

Passenger side rear
Driver side rear
passenger side front
Driver side front

 

Thanks cereal killer. So this morning I got a reply email from Cardone and they said that if it leaks at the grommets, then it's a defect (I bet you were waiting to hear that ZMAN). so I just finished re installing my old one and know it's back to kragen. the main reason I got it there was because it was 35 bucks including core. I'm thinking I might just go to napa and buy one from them. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks for the replies fella's!!!