What did you randomly notice with your Ram recently.
my tires are at 80psi, 285 load range E BFG AT. thats what they put in em at the shop that mounted em for me. chalk thing sounds like a good idea....
ive also noticed this odd squeak/chirp coming somewhere from my front end.. hub maybe? im not sure. everything is greased and lubricated well. also noticed my power steering box is leaking, front seal is leaking, and both axles are leaking as well as my tranny pan. being broke sucks
ive also noticed this odd squeak/chirp coming somewhere from my front end.. hub maybe? im not sure. everything is greased and lubricated well. also noticed my power steering box is leaking, front seal is leaking, and both axles are leaking as well as my tranny pan. being broke sucks
Auggie, I guess they had a short dude work on it and no stool for him to stand on
. They probably didn't stop to check what class the tire was and decided that since it was (in their opinion) over inflated they would correct that. When I went to the shop i bought then from yesterday and had then aired up They asked if I wanted to go to 65psi which was the max and I said nope 50 would do just fine.
imhotep, if i were you i would run a few pounds less in the rear (around 8 or so) because unless you're loaded all the time, your rear tires will wear out in the center from being overinflated.
the junk ameritrac generals i had on mine were worn out in the centers and i believe my old bfg a/t's were a little as well. when i got new tires i started keeping less in the back tires just so they'll wear evenly.
the junk ameritrac generals i had on mine were worn out in the centers and i believe my old bfg a/t's were a little as well. when i got new tires i started keeping less in the back tires just so they'll wear evenly.
imhotep, if i were you i would run a few pounds less in the rear (around 8 or so) because unless you're loaded all the time, your rear tires will wear out in the center from being overinflated.
the junk ameritrac generals i had on mine were worn out in the centers and i believe my old bfg a/t's were a little as well. when i got new tires i started keeping less in the back tires just so they'll wear evenly.
the junk ameritrac generals i had on mine were worn out in the centers and i believe my old bfg a/t's were a little as well. when i got new tires i started keeping less in the back tires just so they'll wear evenly.
imhotep, if i were you i would run a few pounds less in the rear (around 8 or so) because unless you're loaded all the time, your rear tires will wear out in the center from being overinflated.
the junk ameritrac generals i had on mine were worn out in the centers and i believe my old bfg a/t's were a little as well. when i got new tires i started keeping less in the back tires just so they'll wear evenly.
the junk ameritrac generals i had on mine were worn out in the centers and i believe my old bfg a/t's were a little as well. when i got new tires i started keeping less in the back tires just so they'll wear evenly.
I rotate every 3K and have them re-balanced (mine are static balanced).
doing it every 3k you probably won't have a problem then. what is the difference between static and whatever the other way is? non bubble balance.
when i got my tires balanced the guy was talking about road force on the machine and when i balanced tires in high school it was: mount the tire on the machine, turn it on then close the lid and it had left and right locations on where to put the weights (rotate the tire until the light lined up then put the weight in line with a mark on the machine). then close the lid again to check.
so what is road force?
when i got my tires balanced the guy was talking about road force on the machine and when i balanced tires in high school it was: mount the tire on the machine, turn it on then close the lid and it had left and right locations on where to put the weights (rotate the tire until the light lined up then put the weight in line with a mark on the machine). then close the lid again to check.
so what is road force?
doing it every 3k you probably won't have a problem then. what is the difference between static and whatever the other way is? non bubble balance.
when i got my tires balanced the guy was talking about road force on the machine and when i balanced tires in high school it was: mount the tire on the machine, turn it on then close the lid and it had left and right locations on where to put the weights (rotate the tire until the light lined up then put the weight in line with a mark on the machine). then close the lid again to check.
so what is road force?
when i got my tires balanced the guy was talking about road force on the machine and when i balanced tires in high school it was: mount the tire on the machine, turn it on then close the lid and it had left and right locations on where to put the weights (rotate the tire until the light lined up then put the weight in line with a mark on the machine). then close the lid again to check.
so what is road force?
I got this from somewhere! LOL
You have to remove the wheel and tire from the vehicle to have it road force balanced. What the machine does is spin the wheel/tire slowly while pressing a roller against the tread with about 1400 pounds of force. It measures the "loaded runout" of the wheel/tire combination. Then it measures, using other rollers, the runout of the wheel where the bead seats. Then it instructs the user to mark the tire and the wheel, remove them from the machine, break the beads loose, rotate the tires on the wheel to match the marks, then re-inflate and re-mount the wheel/tire on the machine. Then it spins it again to measure the results, then spins it up so balance weights can be applied in the usual manner.
OK, now what's it REALLY doing?
It models the wheel bead mounting surface as a circle that is not necessarily concentric with the rotational axis of the wheel. For the technically literate, that's the first order radial harmonic. It models the tire as a circle that's not necessarily concentric with its beads. It then computes how to mount the tire on the wheel so that the "high spot" of the tire is at the "low spot" of the wheel. Again for the technically literate, it puts the first order harmonic of the tire out of phase with the first order harmonic of the wheel such that they cancel as much as possible.
What that does is minimize the net loaded radial runout of the wheel/tire combination. In layman's terms, it makes the tread surface, under load, as round as possible, relative to the axis of rotation of the wheel.
Does it work? Absolutely. Very expensive machines are used to do the same thing with the tires and wheels that are mounted on new vehicles at the factory. The Hunter GSP9700 does it just as well and it does it in a tire shop. Ask Michelin -- their engineers bought the first six of them Hunter produced.
You can road force balance wheels at any time. I've done it with my own tires at 50,000+ miles. Tires sometimes change their loaded runout with wear, and road force balancing can improve their performance.
You have to remove the wheel and tire from the vehicle to have it road force balanced. What the machine does is spin the wheel/tire slowly while pressing a roller against the tread with about 1400 pounds of force. It measures the "loaded runout" of the wheel/tire combination. Then it measures, using other rollers, the runout of the wheel where the bead seats. Then it instructs the user to mark the tire and the wheel, remove them from the machine, break the beads loose, rotate the tires on the wheel to match the marks, then re-inflate and re-mount the wheel/tire on the machine. Then it spins it again to measure the results, then spins it up so balance weights can be applied in the usual manner.
OK, now what's it REALLY doing?
It models the wheel bead mounting surface as a circle that is not necessarily concentric with the rotational axis of the wheel. For the technically literate, that's the first order radial harmonic. It models the tire as a circle that's not necessarily concentric with its beads. It then computes how to mount the tire on the wheel so that the "high spot" of the tire is at the "low spot" of the wheel. Again for the technically literate, it puts the first order harmonic of the tire out of phase with the first order harmonic of the wheel such that they cancel as much as possible.
What that does is minimize the net loaded radial runout of the wheel/tire combination. In layman's terms, it makes the tread surface, under load, as round as possible, relative to the axis of rotation of the wheel.
Does it work? Absolutely. Very expensive machines are used to do the same thing with the tires and wheels that are mounted on new vehicles at the factory. The Hunter GSP9700 does it just as well and it does it in a tire shop. Ask Michelin -- their engineers bought the first six of them Hunter produced.
You can road force balance wheels at any time. I've done it with my own tires at 50,000+ miles. Tires sometimes change their loaded runout with wear, and road force balancing can improve their performance.
sounds like a good way to make up for imperfections in the tire but i would think that rims would be pretty round if not perfectly round considering that they are cast and checked for imperfections at the factory that makes them.



