Rear Diff sensor
OK Experts,,, I am in a pickel.
I was having the problem of ABS and Brake light on, plus speedo not working. Reading here in the forum everyone said to change the rear sensor on the differential. OK, go to the parts store pick one up, come home get the cover off, bolt out, and start twisting, pulling, turning to get the sensor out of the case... minute later (snap)... it pops out, note i said SNAP it pops out. seems as though the "cover" is still stuck in the hole. So i have the sensor in my hand (copper wires exposed) and the cap, so to speak, is still stuck in the hole. Uh oh i say to my self. so i figure i could tap it out, but then again when it does come out it will drop into the differential... not good i can assume safely....
so,,, and ideals?
Standing by anxiouly for any advise you all have.
thanks
Jake
I was having the problem of ABS and Brake light on, plus speedo not working. Reading here in the forum everyone said to change the rear sensor on the differential. OK, go to the parts store pick one up, come home get the cover off, bolt out, and start twisting, pulling, turning to get the sensor out of the case... minute later (snap)... it pops out, note i said SNAP it pops out. seems as though the "cover" is still stuck in the hole. So i have the sensor in my hand (copper wires exposed) and the cap, so to speak, is still stuck in the hole. Uh oh i say to my self. so i figure i could tap it out, but then again when it does come out it will drop into the differential... not good i can assume safely....
so,,, and ideals?
Standing by anxiouly for any advise you all have.
thanks
Jake
Yeah I had the same thing happen to me. Luckily I was in a shop with tons of tools. I ended up using a set of reverse opening pliers. Unfortunately these are pretty hard to find. If I were in your shoes I would try to use a heavy duty set of retaining ring pliers and just work at it. IT will seem like you won't be able to get it out but just be patient and it will eventually work out.
if the plyers dont work, you can always just take the diff cover off, and tap it out from the underside, and change your rear fluid at the same time, but make sure you have the new diff gasket. its really not hard to do that, just takes a little time, and patience.
Thanks guys. Im going to try the plyers tomorrow and see if it will work. I was imediatly thinking about removeing the cover on the gear box. I am not the "done everything" dodge mechanic that allot of you are. what is that cover? Just a cover? pop it off and the gears are behind it, or is there something attached to the cover that is holding the gears, or if i remove the cover a specal retaining clip will pop out if i dont pay attention???? it looks simple enough, remove the bolts, scrape the gasket, put on a new gasket, fill the gear box..... am i way off?
if I do end up going that route. what type of oil and how much and how do you fill it?
thanks again for the help and information anyone...
Jake
if I do end up going that route. what type of oil and how much and how do you fill it?
thanks again for the help and information anyone...
Jake
its just a cover as it looks, no retaing clips, or anything. and if you dont have any that fall out, you might want to take it in to a shop that can repair it. as that would mean serious problems. but thats not the case. dont worry youll be able to get it out of there in no time.
ima check the FSM for the specs.
Here you go:
Non LSD Rear Ends.
9-1/4 inch 2.1 L (4.5 pts.)
248-RBI(2WD) 3.0 L (6.3 pts.)
248-RBI(4WD) 3.4L (7.0 pts.)
267-RBI(2WD) 3.3 L (7.0 pts.)
267-RBI (4WD) 3.6L (7.5 pts.)
286-RBI (2WD) 3.2 L (6.8 pts.)
286-RBI (4WD) 4.8 L (10.1 pts.)
REAR AXLE—LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
9-1/4 inch 2.2 L (4.7 pts.) 6
267-RBI 3.3 L (7.0 pts.**)
267-RBI (4WD) 3.6 L (7.5 pts.)
286-RBI (2WD) 3.2 L (6.8 pts.**)
286-RBI (4WD) 4.8 L (10.1 pts.***)
** Include 0.05 L (0.25 pts.) friction modifier.
**** Includes 0.9L (1.0 qts.) for coolant reservoir.
to the following specifications should be used.
Mopar Hypoid Gear Lubricant conforms to all of these specifications.
FRONT AXLE
The lubricant should have MIL-L-2105C and
API GL 5 quality specifications.
Lubricant is a thermally stable SAE 80W-90 gear lubricant.
Lubricant for axles intended for heavy-duty or trailer tow use is SAE 75W-140 SYNTHETIC gear lubricant.
NOTE: Trac-lok and Vari-lokequipped axles
require a friction modifier be added to the lubricant.
ima check the FSM for the specs.
Here you go:
Non LSD Rear Ends.
9-1/4 inch 2.1 L (4.5 pts.)
248-RBI(2WD) 3.0 L (6.3 pts.)
248-RBI(4WD) 3.4L (7.0 pts.)
267-RBI(2WD) 3.3 L (7.0 pts.)
267-RBI (4WD) 3.6L (7.5 pts.)
286-RBI (2WD) 3.2 L (6.8 pts.)
286-RBI (4WD) 4.8 L (10.1 pts.)
REAR AXLE—LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
9-1/4 inch 2.2 L (4.7 pts.) 6
248-RBI (2WD) 3.0 L (6.3 pts.**)
248-RBI (4WD) 3.4 L (7.0 pts.)267-RBI 3.3 L (7.0 pts.**)
267-RBI (4WD) 3.6 L (7.5 pts.)
286-RBI (2WD) 3.2 L (6.8 pts.**)
286-RBI (4WD) 4.8 L (10.1 pts.***)
** Include 0.05 L (0.25 pts.) friction modifier.
*** Include 0.19 L (0.4 pts.) friction modifier.
6 Include 0.1 L (0.2 pts.) friction modifier.**** Includes 0.9L (1.0 qts.) for coolant reservoir.
*****Nominal refill capacities are shown. A variation
may be observed from vehicle to vehicle due to manufacturing tolerance and refill procedure.
DESCRIPTION
A multi-purpose, hypoid gear lubricant which conforms
to the following specifications should be used.
Mopar Hypoid Gear Lubricant conforms to all of these specifications.
SAE ratings also apply to multiple grade gear
lubricants. In addition, API classification defines the
lubricants usage.
lubricants. In addition, API classification defines the
lubricants usage.
FRONT AXLE
The lubricant should have MIL-L-2105C and
API GL 5 quality specifications.
Lubricant is SAE 75W-140 SYNTHETIC gear lubricant.REAR AXLE
The lubricant should have MIL-L-2105C andAPI GL 5 quality specifications.
Lubricant is a thermally stable SAE 80W-90 gear lubricant.
Lubricant for axles intended for heavy-duty or trailer tow use is SAE 75W-140 SYNTHETIC gear lubricant.
NOTE: Trac-lok and Vari-lokequipped axles
require a friction modifier be added to the lubricant.
CAUTION: If axle is submerged in water, lubricant
must be replaced immediately to avoid possible
premature axle failure.
hope that helps
Last edited by 004x41500; Nov 7, 2009 at 11:07 PM.
OK,, well even with the differential cover off the Sensor cap would not pop through. so after a little bit of banging, i got it out throught the top. So changing the sensor resulted in a differential oil change also. Oil wasnt to bad concidering its a 99, and only has 45K on it!!!!!!! cant afford to drive it with getting only 9-10mpg on it.
So i RTV'ed (advance auto recommended) the cover, tq'ed it up let it sit about an hour and then dumped in some oil through he "rubber" filler plug. No leaks, drov'er around the block and letting it sit to see if oil starts running out, so far so good. Also, ABS and Brake light is out, and my speedo is working again...
so all in all job done!.
thanks very much to everyone here who helped (including the old posts that told me the sensor was the bad part anyway)... Projects like this with a novice like me,, could be done without forums like these,,,,,,
couldnt have done it without you
So i RTV'ed (advance auto recommended) the cover, tq'ed it up let it sit about an hour and then dumped in some oil through he "rubber" filler plug. No leaks, drov'er around the block and letting it sit to see if oil starts running out, so far so good. Also, ABS and Brake light is out, and my speedo is working again...
so all in all job done!.
thanks very much to everyone here who helped (including the old posts that told me the sensor was the bad part anyway)... Projects like this with a novice like me,, could be done without forums like these,,,,,,
couldnt have done it without you
Trending Topics
Well i am starting to get this sucker back in the mood again. So i am sure i will be on here more trying to improve the gas milage and such....
but i will leave that for another round of searching and posting
but i will leave that for another round of searching and posting
ya, well im currently pushin 11.9MPGs with a K&N Drop in, Bosch Copper+ Plugs(though soon to pull those and put champion truck plugs in, as im not to happy with the results but I did only spend $20 on the plugs so its not that big of a loss.) MSD Street Fire 8MM plug wires (i believe the P/N for those are 5532 not sure though, autozone lists them for mine, though they said they couldnt get them cause the vendor was out of stock, so i took the p/n from there and went to advance and they got them for me for about 3 bucks cheaper $39.xx after tax.) I also have my SC3815 on Tow running 87 octane and Ive also seafoamed my motor at least 3 times in the last 2 months. But Im running a 318 pushin a 4x4 club cab so thats killing the mileage to begin with. I also have a hardtop tonnau cover. thoguh the increase from that was only about 3/4 of a Mile.



