Erratic ignition timing (with pic)
I've been working to cure a cylinder 5 misfire and found that my ignition timing is fluctuating widely at idle. The timing advance jumps around from 8 to 25 degrees at idle (600 RPM.) It steadies out nicely at higher RPM. My error code is always thrown at around 650 RPM...
Is this normal for these engines? If not, I'll assume the camshaft position sensor is the first thing to change.
Thanks in advance if anyone knows if this is a normal idle condition (1997 5.9L engine).
Here's a graph of the timing advance at 600 RPM over about 15 seconds (scale on right is 0 to 25 degrees.) This is captured with car stopped. Manifold vacuum, throttle position, temperature, and RPM are very stable:
Is this normal for these engines? If not, I'll assume the camshaft position sensor is the first thing to change.
Thanks in advance if anyone knows if this is a normal idle condition (1997 5.9L engine).
Here's a graph of the timing advance at 600 RPM over about 15 seconds (scale on right is 0 to 25 degrees.) This is captured with car stopped. Manifold vacuum, throttle position, temperature, and RPM are very stable:
Last edited by Karl2009; Nov 14, 2009 at 12:49 PM.
when my camshaft position sensor started messing up it made the CEL come on.
advance and autozone call it a pick up coil and its much cheaper than the dealers.
i believe that a big change in the timing can be blamed on slack in the timing chain because the pcm controls the timing.
advance and autozone call it a pick up coil and its much cheaper than the dealers.
i believe that a big change in the timing can be blamed on slack in the timing chain because the pcm controls the timing.
I read some other posts here that suggest this is normal, but I have my doubts. Seems like having a cylinder fire 25 degrees early at idle could cause misfire. It's basically firing while the piston is still coming up on the compression stroke, way before TDC. Seems like that could slow the piston down. The computer measures small changes in engine speed to detect a misfire and throw one of the P030X codes.
I've already spent bucks shotgunning this problem, but I guess $27 more for a CPS won't kill me. If that doesn't do it, the next step is pull the heads and rebuild the top-end, and maybe the whole engine (it's got 150K miles.) I just want to make sure I've done all the basic stuff before I tear into the engine.
you won't get a steady check at idle, that's normal.
The standard way to check the timing is to rev the engine to at least 1K. The dealer's DRB III and a snap-on scanner all raise the "idle" to 1000 rpms automatically to set the distributor fuel sync.
The standard way to check the timing is to rev the engine to at least 1K. The dealer's DRB III and a snap-on scanner all raise the "idle" to 1000 rpms automatically to set the distributor fuel sync.
I was afraid of that --- I'm running out of easy fixes. I've got a CPS coming in tonight, so I'll give that a try anyway.
Last edited by Karl2009; Nov 14, 2009 at 05:31 PM.



