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318 upgrades

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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 09:27 PM
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Default 318 upgrades

hey guys,,, just woundering about my ol 318 i got.... ive got the 318 that originally came out of my truck and its still sittin at the house...

i wanted to possibly rebuild it, put some work into it, i know im regearing the Dana 60's and probably locking them... and i am still going to want some more power for those oh *hit moments...

i was looking at the 390 stroker kit, but that would mean i have to send the motor out, get work done, and honestly, thats more work then i want to do, and more moeny then i have to spend....

what heads ( i guess r/t heads will fit, 5.9?) will fit the 318
what is the best plenum to use( it will be replaced before i put it back in)
what cams can i use and still be usefull ( torque in mind)

when i redo this motor, i have a place that can do valves.. like regrind them, clean them up.... are my valves ( or the r/t valves) a 3angle? or something differant?

what the best roller rockers?

this will be a timely built up motor.. maybe one part every month, and eventually put in.... so no big hurry, but i love info.....
or do you guys think the 390 stroker would be better?


p.s. i dont want to do a 408 because i then have to spend alot more money just to get the old motor, then to get the machine work, and i dont have that money
 
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 10:09 PM
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well i have the 1.7 rockers and i could tell there was an increase in performance but not really sure how much HP. ordered them strait from harland sharp

If you have not done it yet maybe you should install a new intake manifold the stock one are really restrictive but they are like 600 bones. Hughes sells them and they are a edelbrock intake manifold but made by hughes.

Also a tuner of some sort would be a good upgrade as well as a throttle body and new air intake.

i have all them upgrades, have not installed but intake manifold and i have a ton more power over stock. the entire build would cost around 1500-2000 depending on what brand you get and stuff.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 10:36 PM
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well, i was lookin at the M1 intake.... but the endelbrock one looks like it would be good to, see this is why im asking...

i have to get a programmer anyway, and i think the search i did on that said the SCT tuner was the best for me... any info on that would help cause i have to re calibrate for gears and tires here soon...

as for throttle body, i knwo ill be doing fastman 52mm, thats why i didnt ask, and i have the other tread open about intakes, as why i didnt ask again here...

and just so to make this clear.. i am completely rebuilding my 318,,, new rings, new bearings all the way around, new timing set, and full on gasket set... and the new plenum plate while im in there...
 
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 10:55 PM
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The M1 is nice. A lot of people say you lose low end, but the overall gains are pretty good.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 11:39 PM
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The only dyno caparison I've seen shows the M1 to be equal to Hughes in every way. Notice the Hughes Dyno graph starts at 3250 RPMs?

IMO the Hughes is overrated and overpriced.

The low end loss isn't too noticeable and is easy to get back, with my mods I have way more low end torque than stock and I pull hard to 5500 RPMs, the kegger falls on it's face at 4500...
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 12:29 AM
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I would say M1, Fastman 52mm, 1.7 Harland's and all the maintaince stuff you said with a good programmer and cam would give you the power your looking for. I would also think about beefing up the tranny a little while you've got it out of the truck.
 

Last edited by Weldor; Nov 24, 2009 at 12:32 AM.
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 06:49 AM
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+1 to Hahns, Other than propritary castings. The M1 and Hughes/Edelbrock are pretty much the same. (Note, from my research, The Hughes is basically a slightly reworked Edelbrock AirGap.) As far as Kegger Mod vs. Intake. I would say It depends on the rpm range you want to operate in. For me and my 318, 4500-5000 rpm is the range I want to run in, so I personally am leaning toward the kegger, I can do the mod myself and drop about 125.00 for a new Hughes plate,gaskets and bolts. You mentioned you had a shop that can do valve work. Ask them is the can port and polish as well? As opposed to swapping heads and having them cleaned up and checked anyway if they are used, why not just have yours done if they are in good shape? As far as any bottom end losses, exhaust and gears will remedy those.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 10:00 PM
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well, just FYI, i did get a rebuilt " towing" trans, designed around the concept of muddin... told the guy very honestly what i was expecting to do with the truck, and what my future plans were for it, and he told me flat out, if i ever blow anything in that trans, to bring it back and he will upgrade it for free...

but i think i will do this. all to tired ol 318 after some good honning, and rerings, and some new bearings everywhere in the motor.. i will do all of this, but just to ask out of pure curiosity, what do you guys think a motor like that would put out??? ya know, all the dodads,,,, 1.7's, M1, fastman, crower stage II cam, my pacesetter shorties and magnaflow highflow ypipe and cat, o glasspack, the R/t heads, of coarse some custom port and polish job... and ya cant forget the extra 10hp for the black mopar performance valve covers... lol
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Twisted Metal
+1 to Hahns, Other than propritary castings. The M1 and Hughes/Edelbrock are pretty much the same. (Note, from my research, The Hughes is basically a slightly reworked Edelbrock AirGap.) As far as Kegger Mod vs. Intake. I would say It depends on the rpm range you want to operate in. For me and my 318, 4500-5000 rpm is the range I want to run in, so I personally am leaning toward the kegger, I can do the mod myself and drop about 125.00 for a new Hughes plate,gaskets and bolts. You mentioned you had a shop that can do valve work. Ask them is the can port and polish as well? As opposed to swapping heads and having them cleaned up and checked anyway if they are used, why not just have yours done if they are in good shape? .
as for kegger.... what the heck i that.. lost me, but i work in all rpms, i run mud, so i could be creepin right along, or i could be going ***** out trying to get out of an opps situation... so theres no tellin... but most of the time i am up a bit in rpms, finding myself pull my foot out to keep from rev limiter alot...

and why i should rework the heads i got, arnt the r/t heads a bigger valve? thats what i was wanting.. i mena if they are the same, hell ill keep mine, i know theres nothing wrong with them, jsut dirty and covered in oil...
 
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