Randy's ring and pinion, brotha!

http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDet...px?ProdID=5662


Performance Off Road Center in Georgia usually has them too, and they've been emailing me about sales recently, so check them out as well.

 

Go 4.10's you won't regret it. Most guys that "overgear" by one size never regret it.

I'd go 4.88's with 37's. But then again, I'd go with a different axle too and go 5.13.

Of course, I'm wanting to burn up these 265X70X16's and get down to a 245 or even 225, but I'm looking for ***** low end on my 318.

 

Cool, thanks aim4squirrels!

 

hey aim check out this post

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1887800-post2082.html

i decided on the 4.11s but i had a few questions, rather than just posting twice ill just link to the original post

 

"Thick" gear can be used in a carrier that is built for numerically smaller gearsets.

The D44 needs a new carrier for 3.92 and numerically larger gear sets in there standard size. You can buy a new carrier or the thick gear set. If you buy the 4.11 thick gear you won't need a new carrier on the D44.

IMHO, never use "generic" gear sets. Buy the yukons, they're a quality product. Spend a little now, or a lot later.

And above all else: use an installer that knows what the hell they are doing. Don't use 4wheelparts.

 

Yep, gears is ALL about the install!

I'm curious why you would say not to use 4 Wheel Parts though? Granted, they are a LOT overpriced on their labor, but I've found that most locations has at least one dedicated "axle" guy who usually does nothing but axle/gear work.

I personally know about a dozen guys who have had their gears done at a 4 Wheel Parts and out of all of them, one had a small whine that was corrected with a little shimming. I used a 4 Wheel Parts for my gears and LSD install and other than the fact that I had to go print prices from other sources and "wheel and deal" to get them down from a ridiculous original quote of $2250 down to around $1500, I had NO PROBLEM whatsoever with the job.

I've since found a local 4x4 shop who does great work for much better prices, complete gear jobs for $600 an axle to include gears, install kit and labor, but I'd not hesitate to use a 4 Wheel Parts IF you can can get them to price the job right!!!

 

After hearing other stories about how they treat there coumsters and so I would never buy anything from them. A few weeks back there was a thread about how a guy took his truck in there and he burned up his breaks and they told him to use 4x4 to help control his rate of decent.

 

i have a no slip and like it, although its not for everybody and requires some getting used to. its in a normally locked condition, and only releases and differentiates when it has some side to side pressure that occurs during road driving. when you're in the mud, or dirt, or front yard, or wet roads - it does what its supposed to do - which is remain locked and dig, dig, dig. that means that it'll spin an inside tire in a sharp turn in wet conditions. it'll also dig up the grass in the yard like a 4 wheeler does, only a lot worse. it'll also take you through a mud hole in 2wd that'll make grandpa cringe.

think of the rear end in 2 pieces - the ring/pinion and then the carrier. the carrier can be any of 3 types.
"open" with spider gears. spins one tire.
"limited slip" with clutches or helical gears.
"locker". small lunchbox noslip or full detroit.

so you always have to have a ring/pinion. this requires pro setup and determines your gear ratio. 3.55 sucks. 4.10 is good. if you're replacing gears, then you're already spending a lot of money. so go with a name brand LSD (detroit, auburn, etc) or full size detroit locker.

if you're not replacing gears, then the noslip is an affordable ($400) and easy do it yourself install that goes inside your existing open or factory lsd carrier box. mine was an open diff and relatively easy. i've got no experience in replacing an LSD carrier, but i see it listed as a different part number.

 

Thanks everyone for the "rear end" education

I really appreciate the education on the Powertrax unit. I would have lumped that into the LSD category based on what I knew about it. I thought a "locker" was that settup that requires air compressor etc. and you locked your axles with that, but when you were done, you could flip a switch and unlock them.

Not sure I want a Powertrax. If I understand you guys, Powertrax will drive both axles anytime torque is applied? That would require some thinking when you corner, I guess. What about tire wear?

I do the vast majority of my driving on city streets. It is the occasional foray out on dirt roads for an occasional hunting trip, the two/three times a year snowfall, loading Sea-doo on slick boat ramp, and trips to the landfill that I would like to have some traction. Sounds like I need a LSD like Auburn or True Trac.

Thanks again. I love learning about stuff I thought I knew something about, but really didn't.

 

Under light throttle it'll stay unlocked.

I've never noticed any extra tire wear with a rear locker FWIW.