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siverbullet soon to be bluebeast (tips on paint)

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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 09:33 PM
  #21  
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purpldodge, not sure but if you are refering to me as not knowing anything about painting, but if you are i've been building customs and resto for over 25 years from the ground up and thats all aspects of it including paint. even did nascars with don fairburn in B.C.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 10:05 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by deadmouse
purpldodge, not sure but if you are refering to me as not knowing anything about painting, but if you are i've been building customs and resto for over 25 years from the ground up and thats all aspects of it including paint. even did nascars with don fairburn in B.C.

He was referring to the OP saying he didnt know anything about paint, and that perhaps he shouldn't attempt to paint this himself, but to let a professional do what they do best... and while I agree, that it's nice if your a painter, to get work, especially in this economy.. I know Silver was saying he isn't exactly made of money for this project.. so this would be a great time to cut his teeth so to speak, and do it.. one thing about the masking, I would always replace all masking after wet sanding, to avoid the issues you mentioned.. thanks for bringing that up though.. Oh, and to Dakotas Ram, that link you posted is excellent! I love the prices.. and to be honest Silver, they have a kit with acrylic enamel, it's a much easier process, and they include a hardner, that would look real nice.. wont last as long as the base/clear, but would look mighty fine for the money...
 
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 10:55 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by deadmouse
purpldodge, not sure but if you are refering to me as not knowing anything about painting, but if you are i've been building customs and resto for over 25 years from the ground up and thats all aspects of it including paint. even did nascars with don fairburn in B.C.
I was not saying you are a pro, I was referring to the OP. But I would have to see your work before I call you a pro! J/K!
 

Last edited by PurplDodge; Dec 2, 2009 at 06:39 AM.
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 01:16 AM
  #24  
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 01:19 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by deadmouse
. what buddy said about the wet sanding and recoating is correct but he forgot to tell you after you've blocked down your final prime and when it's wash'n'wiped for paint you should seal it before you start layin' down your base.

ive heard of sealing primer if youre gonna wait to paint, but what would be the reason to seal otherwise? jus wonderin
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 07:51 AM
  #26  
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A friend and myself do alot of paint work and to be honest there is no need to take it to bare metal. +1 on the etching primer if you do. We always wipe down with mr. clean, prime it and block sand primer, 2 coats of color because you shouldn't need 5 coats of color. Also no need to sand your color coats, beter to use a good gun and clean area. Take hose and dampen the floor to keep dust down. final step clear coat at least 2 coats, more coats depending on the depth you want. wet sand clear and buff to shine.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 12:22 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by moparama
A friend and myself do alot of paint work and to be honest there is no need to take it to bare metal. +1 on the etching primer if you do. We always wipe down with mr. clean, prime it and block sand primer, 2 coats of color because you shouldn't need 5 coats of color. Also no need to sand your color coats, beter to use a good gun and clean area. Take hose and dampen the floor to keep dust down. final step clear coat at least 2 coats, more coats depending on the depth you want. wet sand clear and buff to shine.
Well, if you have a high quality gun, and a really nice compressor, a nice paint booth, and REAL good paint, then yeah, you could get by with 2 coats, especially if the body is prepped well.. My dad was a sign painter for over 30 years,I worked with him on many projects, my brother was also a sign painter at the same shop for 10 years, my grandfather, father, and myself, restored cars for many years, and I worked in a Lincoln/Mercury body shop for over 5 years.. Did body repair and painting. the color should be laid in thin, even coats.. two coats aint going to do it. Also are you wanting a metallic paint or just a nice rich blue?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 01:07 PM
  #28  
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the sealer is just a barrier between all your prep and final paint to prevent any reactions ect between the two. like i said i wasn't sure if buddy was refering to me in his post and now i know.ty. i've spent a life time perfecting my craft and am quick to defend my work. no offense was intended and for buddy not being made of money doing it himself is great. he just has to take his time and ask questions as he did. 5 star extreme 1 shot is an excellent clear. it's cheap/ wet sands great and goes on like water. another way is if you have a local school that teaches autobody and paint you can get smokin' deals by letting them learn on your ride. the teacher won't let them screw up your paint. just a thought.
 
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