Check valve delete just isn't supposed to be... (for me at least)
#12
Yeah I put the sealer on this time and is working great (knocks on wood). As far as cure time, the package said 20min for it to set fully, and 24hrs to cure. I let it sit a solid 2 hours before I threw it on partially because I was impatient haha. I had finished putting a shelf in the shed, and putting the new headlight bucket on the four wheeler in the mean time so I needed something else to do.
#13
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2 hours? That's it? Usually, you have to let it cure for 24 hours before applying pressure and putting it into service. Please check for weeping around the threads after driving. If it weeps, you'll know why at least. I go right to the site and download the TDS for all chemicals and sealers because the package directions are not correct. Just keep an eye on it and make sure it's not weeping. If it does- not a problem. Just remove all the old stuff, clean it well, and reapply and wait the full 24 hours before putting any fluid in the line and putting it into service.
Permatex makes two grades based around that same sealant material. Which one do you have - high temp or high performance?
Permatex makes two grades based around that same sealant material. Which one do you have - high temp or high performance?
#14
I've always had good luck with permatex stuff. Specifically the Ultra Black (High oil resistance) I've used it on both of my diff's, and a few times on the side cover of the four wheeler. All times I have never had a problem. I think I gave my diff's around 12 hours with no issues (did the work at night, re-filled in the morning), and the four wheeler less time than that. For the thread sealant, I got was high temp which is good to 400 degrees I recall. I actually just walked back outside and pop'd the hood to re-check and there still arn't any leaks.... well for the trans line at least hahaha
#15
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Permatex is good stuff. Not an issue there. Although, your speaking RTVs and Silicones when referring to the hi-temp black. I would also look at Gasgacinch. It's miles beyond Permatex and, it's almost a one size fits all sealer that's incredible to use and allows for SUPER easy removal later.
The issue with RTVs is when you have to clean and prep or take it apart. I rarely use RTVs and Silicones for that reason alone.
But, getting back to Permatex Hi Temp Thread Sealant, that's a 24 hour min cure time on that product before filling and pressuring the lines with full cure reaching at 72 hours for maximum resistance to automotive fluids.
Look at the bottom of the threads as it will weep towards gravity. It usually doesn't leak on the top or sides but right at the bottom. It's easy to spot when viewed from underneath the fittings. It will start to discolor and turn blackish red at the weep spot. Just be sure to keep an eye on it that's all. Who knows, sometimes you get lucky too.
The issue with RTVs is when you have to clean and prep or take it apart. I rarely use RTVs and Silicones for that reason alone.
But, getting back to Permatex Hi Temp Thread Sealant, that's a 24 hour min cure time on that product before filling and pressuring the lines with full cure reaching at 72 hours for maximum resistance to automotive fluids.
Look at the bottom of the threads as it will weep towards gravity. It usually doesn't leak on the top or sides but right at the bottom. It's easy to spot when viewed from underneath the fittings. It will start to discolor and turn blackish red at the weep spot. Just be sure to keep an eye on it that's all. Who knows, sometimes you get lucky too.
#16
Permatex is good stuff. Not an issue there. Although, your speaking RTVs and Silicones when referring to the hi-temp black. I would also look at Gasgacinch. It's miles beyond Permatex and, it's almost a one size fits all sealer that's incredible to use and allows for SUPER easy removal later.
The issue with RTVs is when you have to clean and prep or take it apart. I rarely use RTVs and Silicones for that reason alone.
But, getting back to Permatex Hi Temp Thread Sealant, that's a 24 hour min cure time on that product before filling and pressuring the lines with full cure reaching at 72 hours for maximum resistance to automotive fluids.
Look at the bottom of the threads as it will weep towards gravity. It usually doesn't leak on the top or sides but right at the bottom. It's easy to spot when viewed from underneath the fittings. It will start to discolor and turn blackish red at the weep spot. Just be sure to keep an eye on it that's all. Who knows, sometimes you get lucky too.
The issue with RTVs is when you have to clean and prep or take it apart. I rarely use RTVs and Silicones for that reason alone.
But, getting back to Permatex Hi Temp Thread Sealant, that's a 24 hour min cure time on that product before filling and pressuring the lines with full cure reaching at 72 hours for maximum resistance to automotive fluids.
Look at the bottom of the threads as it will weep towards gravity. It usually doesn't leak on the top or sides but right at the bottom. It's easy to spot when viewed from underneath the fittings. It will start to discolor and turn blackish red at the weep spot. Just be sure to keep an eye on it that's all. Who knows, sometimes you get lucky too.
Thanks,
Greg
#17
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Hey you bet man. I have been through this crap before. Same crap, different RAM. I went through a bout early on with fuel lines a long time ago and learned what not to do and, blowing off cure schedules was No 1 on the list of things not to do.
Chris McKenna
Chris McKenna
Last edited by cmckenna; 12-14-2009 at 11:57 PM.
#19
It wasn't the napa fitting, or the napa hose that leaked on me. It was the lowes fittings that were causing the problems. I had two sets of the flare fitting to barb fitting and both leaked. First with teflon (following purpl's diy), the second without (following aim's diy).