Whining noise in the rear end
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Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,055
Likes: 7
From: Lee County, North Carolina
ok, that is what the carrier looks like, but where are the clutch disks? i though it would be a pack in or on either side of the spider gears. if it is in fact LSD then it needs the friction modifier since i didn't use any when it got refilled.
the drive shaft is good now with new u joints. the noise happened out of the blue on the highway after 100 miles of driving, but the old u joints had been bad for who knows how long with plenty of driving being done before the 400 mile trip. it was just after 100 miles of driving on the highway that the noise started.
the drive shaft is good now with new u joints. the noise happened out of the blue on the highway after 100 miles of driving, but the old u joints had been bad for who knows how long with plenty of driving being done before the 400 mile trip. it was just after 100 miles of driving on the highway that the noise started.
Champion
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,015
Likes: 8
From: Western NY,
That picture in the link was of an open carrier. This is what the trac-lok looks like:
And as far as bearing noise goes, the rear pinion bearing will whine under acceleration and the front bearing will whine under deacceleration. So if its making the same noise all the time, chances are its not the pinion bearings because if the rear bearing is bad, it won't make noise while deaccelerating, and if the front is bad, it won't make noise while accelerating. It all depends on how the differential is loaded.
And as far as bearing noise goes, the rear pinion bearing will whine under acceleration and the front bearing will whine under deacceleration. So if its making the same noise all the time, chances are its not the pinion bearings because if the rear bearing is bad, it won't make noise while deaccelerating, and if the front is bad, it won't make noise while accelerating. It all depends on how the differential is loaded.
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Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,055
Likes: 7
From: Lee County, North Carolina
well now that has me second guessing. i don't remember if the passenger side of the carrier was boxy or rounded.
would it hurt an open diff to add friction modifier? i know that stuff is pretty thin because my camaro takes it. so it would be 8oz. less gear oil substituted with some thin friction modifier.
would it hurt an open diff to add friction modifier? i know that stuff is pretty thin because my camaro takes it. so it would be 8oz. less gear oil substituted with some thin friction modifier.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
no. it would not.
look on your rear axle tube, passenger side, for a mopar paper sticker. mine says "3.55 open"
look on your rear axle tube, passenger side, for a mopar paper sticker. mine says "3.55 open"
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Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,055
Likes: 7
From: Lee County, North Carolina
thanks for the info/link.
the fluid is going to be changed again soon, i'll tell her to put the friction modifier in just in case it is LSD and see what happens.
since the truck is back in Tennessee, i won't be able to help fix it, i'll just be tech support once i get as much info as i can.
there isn't a sticker on the axle. and i found the sticker that is supposed to be on the inside of the hood inside the glove box. it said "rear axle - chrysler 9." or something like that, so it wasn't very helpful.
the fluid is going to be changed again soon, i'll tell her to put the friction modifier in just in case it is LSD and see what happens.
since the truck is back in Tennessee, i won't be able to help fix it, i'll just be tech support once i get as much info as i can.
there isn't a sticker on the axle. and i found the sticker that is supposed to be on the inside of the hood inside the glove box. it said "rear axle - chrysler 9." or something like that, so it wasn't very helpful.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2010
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Same whirring/whining noise
I own a 2001 Ram and have this exact same noise. My mechanic said it is the pinion bearing. He disconnected the drive shaft and turned by hand to verify. His suggestion was to get a rebuilt rear end versus having them rebuild. Said it would be cheaper, easier and less time. I have been using this mechanic for some time and trust his judgement. I just want to make sure for my own piece of mind that the right thing is being done. Any advice/input would be appreciated.
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Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,055
Likes: 7
From: Lee County, North Carolina
my sister talked to a couple shops (ha! umm... no) and the dealership. the dealer wants 600$ for new pinion/carrier/wheel bearings and new seals and that comes with a 1 year warranty. i'm trying to talk her into getting 4.10 gears since she'll already be that deep into it anyway.
roadkill, a rebuilt rear end should cost more than having someone rebuild yours. you'll be paying for the entire rear end as opposed to just getting new bearings and seals in yours.
see what your guy will charge then compare that to what the dodge dealership will charge for a rebuild.
roadkill, a rebuilt rear end should cost more than having someone rebuild yours. you'll be paying for the entire rear end as opposed to just getting new bearings and seals in yours.
see what your guy will charge then compare that to what the dodge dealership will charge for a rebuild.
Last edited by Sheriff420; Jan 2, 2010 at 10:57 AM.