Like I said, I bought two and both were out of spec. Only the dealer item worked 100% in my case. It doesn't matter where you source them. You can go to AZ, Pep Boys, Advanced etc, it doesn't matter because, they do not make the parts. They all buy them from the same supplier/s and, all buy so-so parts according to a technical resource who has tested 3rd party sensors electrically.

This is why it costs 144 bucks (in SO Cal) for a MAP sensor vs. 45 bucks to 70 bucks from 3rd party stores. There's a reason for that and, it's not because the dealer marks them up that high.

This also explains why some parts are the same cost at both the dealer and 3rd party supply chains. On these parts, there's less testing and are simple devices and usually have a low defect rate and do not have to be so tight on the specs to function at normal operational range.

This is how the system works. Here's another example. Radio Shack does the same exact thing. They buy the junk that doesn't pass OEM specs. The supplier that makes the resistors, caps, tubes, potentiometers etc etc, doesn't want to get stuck with the OEM rejects either so, in turn, they find a buyer to sell them to at a super low price- usually the cost of manufacture.

Radio Shack used to sell vacuum tubes that were lousy and out of spec. And, they have nothing to lose because of their NON-return policy on USED electrical components. Same setup can be seen at the 3rd part auto stores as well.

They set this up intentionally for two reasons:

1. The buyers and brokers know full well that the sensors don't meet spec and that the parts may not work and, people will be bringing them back.

2. The other is misuse / abuse.

In both cases, they are guaranteed a profit- there's no loss. It is a win win situation for both the source and the buyer and the auto store.

So, again to recap: whatever doesn't pass form, fit or function at the quality level of the OEM ends up being bought by brokers and buyers and sold off to the 3rd part auto stores.

I would go dealer for all your sensors. I did and will never buy 3rd party again.

I went through four T-stats- not one of them worked. I got the dealer T-stat which looked exactly like the 3rd party T-stat however, looks is where it ends. The dealer part worked. The 3rd party- did not.

The four T-stats were ALL over the map as far as temp. These were rejects that were bought from the same supplier thus the reason why they looked the same. Had the same stamp on it and everything. Made in Mexico. But, after screening, the dealer got the ones that work and the rejects made their way into Autozone, Kragen and Napa to which I can honestly inform you that not one of those worked.

I went through the same ordeal with two IACs and two TPSs. Idle was up and down, or, you'd start it and the idle would shoot way up as if a vac line was removed.

I experienced surging due to a bad TPS. Screw that nonsense. I finally got fed up and did some research. Now, all electrical parts that I buy are fully screened and meet OEM specs. I pay more ONE time than buying four sensors at avg 60 bucks that don't work which, in the end, ended up costing me twice the dealer cost when all was said and done.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Chris M

 

its not common but it happens every now and then. i haven't had any problems out of my bwd IAC from advance. i got it 4 or 5 years ago and it didn't even fix the problem i was having but i left it on there anyway.

 

yea I snagged up a stacked plate. I would hope there'd be fresh fluid and filter in a new trans haha. Unless they funnel the fluid from the old one into the new one haha

 

I bought a BWD as well.. it sounds like my truck has a blower now?! the air noise i loud as hell, it's more of a whistle... is that how its supposed to sound? The stock one was dirty as hell and the plunger fell out of it when i took it off...

 

Also can anyone clarify something for me? I'm in need of a plenum repair... I was going to buy an after market intake manifold. i could have sworn i found an edelbrock that would work... does that have the same type of plenum design? and if it does does it come with gaskets?! does anyone know lol.

 

I doubt that it is a two piece. If it is, i'm sure its ALL aluminum. I don't think Vic would make that mistake.

 

Mine just did that, code 32. I need to get it fixed. Is that what code yours threw?

Thanks

 

It was not an "immediate" code. What I mean is the CEL did not come on, It just came up when I checked the codes. I do not think it was a code 32. It was something about a short in the egr circuit. Can't think of the number but I know it was just the plug on the egr valve.

UPDATE!-- Hughes Plenum is done and truck runs like a rabbit from a combine! New IAC. (Tip-- DO NOT TOUCH IT! IT'LL COST YOU!) and about 4ft. Of replacement vacuum lines. Not to mention- cat delete, radiator, hoses, fan clutch, t-stat, fuel injectors, plug wires, cap and rotor, e-3 plugs, and some other misc wallet demons. Thank God.

 

I completed everything and now it is showing a code but I cannot figure out what it is. It shows 12-32-37. I know what the 12 and 32 is but what is a CODE 37?

 

Trans temperature sensor voltage low