You said you have a 1/2" drive breaker bar, unfortunately that might not be enought. Depending on where you live (snow climate or not) that nut might be "welded" on there with rust. Mine was, I soaked it with PB blaster 24 hours before and then broke two 1/2" drive breaker bars trying to get the stupid nut to turn off. I borrowed a 1" breaker and stuck a 5' steel pole on the end of it. I had to jump on the end of the pole to get the nut to break loose. I got it off but the 1" breaker bar was bent to snot.

I'm just warning you. Hopefully it won't be that bad. There are claims that some years have a left handed thread. You might want to check that out before you go reaming on it. After that nut comes off the rest will be a breeze, especially with that puller. Good luck!

 

the seals are way down at the inside of the pumpkin or cad, so you're not going to hurt them from the use of the puller. the puller is going to be some kind of extractor tool. you may not even need it. mine literally just slid right out.

but - the delicate little axle seals are sitting there on the axles, and when you remove the knuckle support (brg), now the axle is free to slide in/out, and the weight of the axle is just laying on the seal. so if you're not careful, you'll damage it.

like zman said, support the axle at the knuckle, and don't let it flop around a lot.

and like i said, don't let the axle slide outwards, out of its normal position in/out.

 

ill stick something inside the shaft a little bit to keep it propped...thanks for the heads up





and that doesnt make me feel good about the hub nut csxfan.....thanks alot lol

 

You might be alright with the nut, never know. Both my nuts (haha) came off relatively easy. But my hubs were a bit of a PITA. You never know til ya get into er....

Oh, and DO NOT use an impact gun to put the axle nut back on, torque it accordingly or you'll be doin this again in a couple months

 

i got my haynes and its has torque specs

 

I have a 3/4" drive rachet, breaker bar, socket set that I used with the 1-11/16" socket. Axle hub nut torques to 175 ft.-lbs. my torque wench is only good to 150 ft.-lbs. But it probably won't matter, as the castle nut will most likely not go to the next notch(which would be way more than 175).You will find it a very straight forward procedure once you get started.

 

you can rent a torque wrench from oreilleys that goes from 20-250 ft-lbs.
use anti seize on the stub axle splines, the hub to knuckle contact points and the 12pt bolts.
the way you can tell if the threads are reversed or not is to look at them. if the threads low side is on the right then it is normal and if the low side is on the left then it is reversed.
if you accidentally pull the axle out with the hub (like i did) then there is a good chance that the axle seals will be damaged due to their age, and that is certainly a fun job replacing those seals.

pb blaster isn't a penetrating fluid, it is a lubricant and barely penetrates into rust.
this is a good example of why PB is a waste of time.

 

I'm talking about the seal inside the axle,after the hub is off. The axle will just be flopping around.

 

i know what you mean....i mean where the axle goes into the tube to get to pumpkin, im going to stick a piece of rubber right there so it will stay up, and not flop down once separated


i have new seals that i bought like 3 months ago...but ive been worried about attempting the seals (my drivers side seal is leaking anyways so they do have to be repaired)

 

i just thought of something...would it be easier to change the u-joints now or wait will i do seals? i do have very very very small play in the pass.side u-joint. not enough to make any noise though.