At that point somethings going to break, either a bone or a bolt

 

Just the nut, trust me, this ain't my first rodeo!!!

 

i have a feeling the hub assembly will come right out. when i took the rotor off i could pullt the assembly out like 1/4 of an inch. Thats ALOT IMO. so i think the bearing will fall out

 

YAY! well i used my 3/4 breaker bar and two foot pipe, and it crack as soon as i put down weight. so the axle nut is removed.

im doing the 3 12pt. 14mm's right now. i just sprayed them. i already cracked one open, but its comming out tought, and i dont want to break them.

Im so excited

 

GO! GO! GO!........(cheering)..................!!!

 

i was gonna multi quote but there are too many to comment on, so here is the short list.

i can't believe the price of the breaker bar and socket. don't you have a tractor supply around you? i paid 15$ for a 3/4" breaker bar and 7$ for the socket. and i already had a 3 foot piece of pipe for a cheater bar.

i believe the freezeoff has similar chemicals to the knock'er loose with the added freezing chemical, so that should loosen it up.

when i did mine i just barely started to flex before it broke loose and all i did was give it a shot of the knock'er loose in the morning, then went back out there in the evening and sprayed again and winged it off. the passenger side got a spray and about a 15 minute wait till i broke it loose with minimal effort as well.

hitting the cheater bar with a sledge is a good way to bust a knee cap/shin/fender.

pb blaster and wd-40 suck at penetrating rust.

you can tell which way the nut needs to turn by looking at the threads. if they're slanted toward the right (more toward you on the left and more toward the differential on the right) then they are right hand threads and vice versa.

if you have an air chisel with a dull tip then that might do the trick. spray the freezeoff on the nut then hit it with the chisel and the severe vibration might just crack that rust. remember to wear glasses and don't do it so much that you damage the stub shaft.

edit: well i guess i just wasted my time typing that, i forgot about the third page, ugh...

 

Ok old wheel bearing is out. i was using the slide hammer, and the bearing came out of the hub and like exploded... then i had to wail on the hub trying to get it out. managed to get the slide hammer bolted to it, and it popped right out. (the piece with the 3 14mm 12pts. stayed attached, and i un-pressed the wheel bearing lol)

Its easier thn i thought...minus not having the proper tools at first. but it did take me about 20 minutes with the slide hammer to get it out. but going consistantly as hard cold till it budged....so now im takin a well deserved break. luckily the axle shaft didnt move, and i put a piece of rubber under it, so it didnt drop when it came apart.

 

I've found it easy to get the hub off with a chisel or my favorite, the air chisel.

 

ok new bearing has been installed.

was a breeze getting it back together.

it doesnt hop when turning right anymore...BUT, i still have a hop when turning left. its not as bad, but still there. both wheels have absolutly no play. drivers side u-joint has NO play. pass. side has very minimal play only going one way.

Iwas told my camber or toe-in is off. i got an alignment 6 weeks ago, and the only thing that was off was the toe-in. do you think driving it this much with a bad wheel bearing and all the hopping its done has messed up my camber or toe-in?

 

First congrats on getting it apart, sounded pretty easy..LOL

second I don't see how you're alignment would have been set correct with a bearing that bad.
so putting the new bearing in would definitely change the alignment