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Replacing a fuel pump on gas burner this weekend...checking on a couple of things

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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 02:26 PM
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Default Replacing a fuel pump on gas burner this weekend...checking on a couple of things

OK,
I have a friend with a '99 2500 5.9L gas engine.

She was told by the House Of Mufflers that her fuel pump went out. It sounds like it is on, but there is no pressure under the hood. They want like 800 bucks to repair.

I told her I will help. It looks pretty straight forward. Here is what I am expecting...

disconnect battery
drain fuel
disconnect filler tube from bed
disconnect tank straps
drop tank
unhook the wire harness etc
remove fuel pump
reverse process with new one in.

I know that is the overly simple explanation...but thats the basics.

My question is are there any special tools? Special tricks with the Ram I need to know about? I have done this once before...but not on a Dodge...

I would appreciate any advise, tips, tricks etc.

Also, was planning on getting aftermarket pump from one of the big parts houses in town. OEM pump I think was about $220 from O'rielly or Auto Zone.

Thanks for any help you can offer.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 02:40 PM
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Did this last week, only things I can add are the anti siphon valves are at the end of the filler tubes, and I found it easier to do by unbolting the drive shaft so I had more room to work. The biggest problem I had was getting the old hose clamps off. About 3hrs work time for me.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 03:23 PM
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Might be easy-er to pull off the bed.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by nopower318
Might be easy-er to pull off the bed.
I haven't need to do this yet, but that is what I have always told myself I would do. I've heard bad stories about those gas tank straps being a pain expecially.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 06:01 PM
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I have thought about lifting the bed...6 bolts right?
My question was what to do with it when the bed is up...hahaha. If I had some kind of rafters in my garage I could get some straps and just suspend it....but dot have that.

Maybe just lift it off and set it in the yard for a while....hmmmmm

Aside from either getting to the tank, or lifting the bed...I am guessing the actual part swap is pretty much straight forward...nothing I need to worry about?
 

Last edited by mcompton1973; Jan 22, 2010 at 06:08 PM. Reason: forgot last question
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 06:11 PM
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When I did mine, I took the rear strap off, and just loosened the front strap,(because it looked like it would be hard to get back on)and let it sag down enough to get the pump out and in. It worked brilliantly. The h*ll with doing all that other stuff
 
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 03:24 PM
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Well....Truck has been parked in my yard for a month because she has another car...and its been 30 outside...Looks like tomorrow will be the day. Couple more questions...

1...any issues with siphoning the fuel out? I heard that might not be possible?
2...if I go the pull the bed off route...can that be done with sockets etc? Someone said they have only used impact wrench...I dont have access to that.
3...fuel lines and wires etc...are those going to be pretty strait forward? Any tricks or tips so I dont break anything?

Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 03:40 PM
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$ 800 seems pertty good fo replace it , I was just quoted $600 for just the pump fron the parts store (lordco)
 
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mcompton1973
2...if I go the pull the bed off route...can that be done with sockets etc? Someone said they have only used impact wrench...I dont have access to that.

Thanks.
I haven't done a fuel pump on mine yet, but I just replaced the bed the other day and didn't use the impact at all.
Gord.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 04:45 PM
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Get a haynes manual, it will help you with things like the clips on the fuel line connector and the rollover vent line.

I put 2 milk crates under the tank rather than take it all the way down to the ground, those clips took me a couple of minutes to figure out with braile..
I disconnected them while the tank was still strapped so it was hard to see.

Also IIRC the electrical connector will have a green clip that you push across (90* to) the connecter before you can pull it straight out.

Good luck and welcome to DF
 
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