Ok, so is there a way to test the regulator? I will check the Chilton... It does bleed off really quickly...like I shut the truck off and 10 sec later, the guage is back at zero. Whats a fair price for a regulator? I know fuel pump is around $250.

 

I am looking for the fuel pump and regulator online. Does anyone know of a good parts site that has good prices? I found a pump from autopartswarehouse and they want $161, which is the cheapest I've found. Its a delphi, and I have no clue which brands are good for pumps. NAPA wants $250 up here in good ole Alaska. Havent gotten a price on regulator yet. Hopefully I can still get my hughes plenum kit and SCT after this fuel pump...

Thanks guys

 

The check valve part of the pressure regulator/pump assembly is the issue I believe, I went through the same thing a couple years ago. if you want to confirm this for sure, go out to your truck that has sat for a while and turn the key to run (not starting) hold key in run position for about 2-4 seconds repeat two or three times then try to start as normal, should fire right up!

You can cheat (cycling pump) this way for a while but best to do like said above, replace the whole fuel pump module, I would not get the partial kits like you see on ebay etc. get the whole assembly new, its not that bad to change, just try to do it with as little fuel in tank as possible

edit. I got mine at Carquest for about $240 complete, the brand is Airtex, OEM supplier they say.

ALASKA! Burrrrr.. it was a chilly 65* today in Phoenix

btw. some Jeep wranglers have this "long" start problem from new

 

It will start right up if I cycle it a couple of times or crank for a sec then stop then crank and it fires right up. I only have this problem when it has sat for more than 15 mins. If I shut it off and start it back up within that 15, it starts up like normal. If it were the fuel pump going out...wouldnt it take awhile to crank all of the time? The PO said it has started like this for a couple of years now. Doesnt matter cold/hot weather.

I guess I just dont wanna replace a $250 part and have it do the same thing it did before. I still have yet to check some evap canister thing...

 

Its the pump, sorry but no getting around it. it will solve your problem, but check the other stuff if you like, the evap stuff usually triggers the CEL Check Engine Light, if you have over 100000 mi on the pump this is a common issue

reason for getting whole assembly is, you don't want to get into dissecting the different parts of the pump/regulator/lines/electric/screen etc. they have crimped type hose clamps and molded plastic lines that all sit submerged in fuel

even the Dodge "experts" at dealer couldn't agree where the actual check valve/ball is, some say in the regulator some say in the elect pump itself (I think its in the pump) the check valve is what the real problem is, it just keeps the fuel pressure in the line after shut off, your pump may last another 100000mi, if you could deal with the long start bull $hit or just cycle the pump a few times at cold start until you can do it right

 

Ok...I have no problem replacing the pump if it is the culprit. I just have to drive from Missouri to Iowa and also Missouri to New Mexico in a couple of months, and dont want some bull**** alongside the road. Any recommendations on which pump to get? Is this one of those parts that I want to bend over and take it from the dealer, or would NAPA, or an online parts store be ok?

Like I said, with the gauge on the fuel rail, it holds 50 psi while running, but drops VERY quickly after the truck gets shut off. Plus, it goes to 50 quickly with the key on, then drops quickly. Could the reason it starts good after sitting less than 15 mins just be that it still has slight pressure, as opposed to letting it sit all night, all pressure bleeds back into the tank??

By the way...truck has 92,500 miles

Thanks a lot!

 

"holds 50 psi while running, but drops VERY quickly after the truck gets shut off"

above.. that is the check valve/ball not holding line pressure, if it was working correctly it would hold pressure at fuel rail and when you bleed the schrader valve it would spray not trickle

like I said, you can deal with it or replace it now, the pump itself may keep working for a while, but I changed mine with a Carquest/Airtex one for $240 before I towed my jeep from Phoenix to Moab to be safe

before replacing it was a pita not to mention embarrassing that it took so long to start, now it starts rite up like a new truck...

I would not get one from the discount auto parts stores or Steelership and if I remember Checker didn't carry it, Napa is fine, call around local parts stores and check on line, just be sure you get the complete drop in unit not some quick cheap fix

 

Thanks overs ram! It is pretty embarassing having a nice looking truck that cranks and cranks before it starts. Plus, I need to get it working like it should before I can get my tuner!

 

No problem, good luck

 

Update: Napa wants $281, plus shipping. Carquest wants $232 and its in stock. Oreily's wants $224 and its stocked. Dealer wants $524...and they wonder why people think they get raped by dealers....WOW! Guess I will go with Oreily's...I have bought parts from them before and they were good quality. The $224 is the whole "module" which they say is everything, not piecing it together.

Thanks for the help!