They fouled out within the first month if I remember correctly. I yanked those off and went to MSDs after that. I, like many, started with Napa wires too. Then, when those failed, I went to MSDs, those failed etc etc. The Magnecors have yielded no issues across country, over the Appalachian's while towing- absolutely no issues under all loading, WOT etc, nothing. I have had zero issues with them.

Even before I put new heads on before this trip, I tested them on that same run and there were no misfires and no crossfires. It was definitely rooted with wires in all cases.

 

I read it. Very nice.

My experience is different. No disrespect towards cmckenna.
My old Chevelle with a 396 ran best with a MSD 6800 ignition and MSD wires. Ran those wires (3 sets) for over 10 years and 60,000 miles.

 

Yeah, that's exactly the type of application they were intended for- CARB setups and external ignition control systems.

 

Do you route your Magnecors to the TSB?
Also what brand cap and rotor do you use?

Thanks Dave

 

I'm there with Torp. I've had good experiences with MSD and Taylor wires of various types and the Accel coil and MSD6al (on a different vehicle). I've not had any of the issues that others have stated.

 

No, there's no need. The only rule of thumb is to not cross wires at the plugs in an X pattern. Rest are wired in looms straight back to the cap. The only wire that I keep separate (out of old habit) is the coil wire. I do keep that away from all other wires by a min distance of 1 inch. Again, this is out of habit however, I'd bet that it would not be an issue if it were wired one loom next to the neighboring wires. When it warms up a bit-(above freezing at least) I plan on getting it off the valve cover on into the looms.

CAP that I use: Borg Warner

 

Since I read you use the BW cap (and rotor?), would you recommend thier premium wires? I don't need uber trick fancy named overpriced stuff for my truck. I don't have a performance ignition or a bunch of trick mods.
I also don't drive my truck much anymore so I was thinking of buying Jegs stuff. The cap/rotor has brass contacts and the wires seem to be priced right or no more then OEM stuff.

 

TO answer your question: no, I wouldn't use their wires. In fact, I have had many issues with wires that I now only will use one kind and that's Magnecor.

As far as their cap and rotor, it was a last minute decision as I was leaving Los Angeles to head to NY and needed a new cap and, that was the only one offered in brass terminals. All the others were cheap, Al junk.

But, as long as it's got brass terms and, the rotor is solidly made and the pop rivet is nice and tight, and the cap material is of good dielectric properties, it will work without issue.

But, as for wires- no, I don't recommend that brand overall. Will they work? Sure they will providing that you route them per TSB and maintain a fair distance away, and, as long as the dielectric is decent enough, it shouldn't crossfire or arc over to the block so long as you don't create a situation at the boots of an X-pattern. Keep them separated and it "should" work just fine.

But, if you start getting misfire codes, you'll know what the issue is right off. They should at least last 20K miles which is not great but, at least, they should be fine for a while anyway before they start degrading to where they start to fail.

NOTE: if your just going standard OEM, you may want to use Mopar's standard conductor wires. They are the correct ohmage and, so long as you route them per TSB, they may work for you. I don't know what the cost is on those though.

It may be more or less than Borg Warners's stuff.

CM

 

Mopar wires are $32.99 from Mopar.BIZ.

 

Thanks for the help.
I'm not sure what I'll do yet, but I usually replace my wires every 3 years anyway and these are due. Haven't had codes or noticable missfires, but in my mind, its time to change 'em.
If Taylor made custom sets I'd consider that.