heres what the guy used

http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-RESIN-STRU...item4837d22649

 

The guy I talked to used what he called "Road and Bridge" epoxy. I have no idea of the specs on it, but that's what he used.

 

I know that one time Hughes engines was using epoxy to fill thier keggers, but you know, they've never told anyone what they used.

I like the idea of the filled intake for certain apps. Reducing the plenum area increases air velocity through the intake and allows a strong vacum signal and increased air velocity across the injector stream, possibly increasing atomization and improving combustion. A faster air flow can improve part throttle response.
Since air and gas aren't mixed in the plenum, (like a carbureted engine) the surfaces can remain smooth to further airflow.
The downfall might be that filling in too much area may start restricting the flow.

 

Ya, I heard Hughes was only using a small amount in the corners to to give the intake a more rounded surface on the inside.

 

I work on aerospace and airborne products for the DoD, never heard of Max Bond. Judging by the packaging, it looks as though it's cheap stuff that I would only feel safe to use on a bar top. Do you have a TDS for it by any chance?

Just looked that up. That's a modeling epoxy used for sculptures and hole repairs as well as LIGHT-weight applications.

Here's an excerpt from their TDS: "It is also can be used as an adhesive for lightweight applications such as RC hobby craft" It's also a 90 shore D rating which is super hard which also means it's not flexible and is does not expand nor contract well at all which is the exact opposite of what you'd be looking for in an automotive application.

The other problem is the environmental testing is only rated for salt, freeze thaw and impact which are totally useless here. What you want to see is thermal cycling adhesion properties and sheer stress under thermal and random vibration profile at around 5-10 Gs RMS which is the equivalent to the auto industry application in question.

You want some really top notch epoxy, that is not even close. That stuff is cheap at 40/gallon.

 

Yes, according to Dave at Hughes, this is correct.

 

Ya seriously, think about the qualities an epoxy for this would need to have. I know my intake sits in temps as low as the negative teens in the winter time, and heats up to who knows what temp. All within minutes sometimes. Its heating and cooling properties would have to be close to aluminum so that it doesn't shear itself away from the mating surface it is attached to as it heats and cools. Plus, it would have to handle shaking and jaring from hitting potholes, wheeling, etc... This is the one main reason I could never get myself to even experiement with this idea. To much can go wrong if that epoxy should come loose.

Wonder what type Hughes is using?

 

I'd let a friend try it before I did.

 

Glad you're not my friend. lol

 

well the bridge epoxy would have to be close.. think how far roads and bridges move in heat and cold....