What we know is:
The plenum was changed and the intake reinstalled as well as a new gasket set.
Since everything is stock, there's got to be something that's either not hooked up incorrectly or,
the wrong gasket set was installed.

Who makes the gasket set: Felpro, Meinz, Mopar, Edlebrock etc and, what is the P/N?

Reason I ask this is to ensure that your parts are correct and that you haven't installed the wrong intake gasket set thus possibly blocking the ports partially thus not allowing fuel to enter into the chamber. I have personally seen someone else do this on another type of vehicle and it drove him and I nuts for days until I finally figured out that he'd installed the wrong gasket kit. After removing the injector and peering into the port, there lie the problem.

Injector harness was removed. Possible err in re-assembly as was stated early on by RM-INDY. Verify each injector is connected in sequence as it comes off the harness from the rear to front of engine.

Did you remove the diz or alter it's position? Did you change / alter the ignition wires or the coil or diz? Was there anything else that was altered / removed / changed during the intake changeover? NOTE: If the diz was removed and reinstalled, there's chance of error that led to the CPS to be out of sync with the CKPS thus tripping the auto shutdown command or, it's just far enough in / out that it will turn over and try to start but, sputters and stalls out almost immediately.

Again, possible pinched CPS harness.

CM

 

im sure the injectors are in sequence. i didnt move the distributor that i know off and i checked to make sure that it isnt loose. i have thought about moving it but i heard i would have to have a special tool to get it in time if i messed it up. If i hold the gas and continuesly crank it the motor hit on a few cylnders as long as the start is helping it. This i why i think something is out of time and i checked the spark thats why i thought maybe it was the injectors

 

as for the gaskets i got a hughes plenum plate kit and manifold gaskets form advance that im pretty sure i put in right

 

Well, I'm out of ideas to be honest. Something is out of whack with the reinstall. The intake removal and installation process shouldn't have messed up the timing at all.

Please, don't touch the dizzy- you've done good there.

So, the only other thing left to verify is your voltages going to the coil. Since you can't keep it running, you'll need two people to verify the voltage at the coil input.

I want you to run a DVM - digital volt meter on the coil. Backprobe the positive wire and run the COM to ground at the headlight ground at the frame.

Have your helper turn the key to <ON> and look for voltage at the coil. You'll have three seconds before the ASD relay will cut out.

You should have ~14 volts at input.

Now, it is quite possible that some component/s in some other system went south. Do you get any CEL errors or, OBD errors?

Do you own / have access to a scan tool? If so, scan it and find out what codes are being thrown.

Another thing to verify: verify the ALT output as your turning the motor over.

Have your helper or yourself, hold the gas long enough to keep it chugging for seconds. Just long enough so you can see what the ALT output is doing.

Just measure across the battery and see if your getting ~14 volts. IF not, something in your ALT / charging system is not correct thus not able to power on any of the EFI system and sensors.

Check that and get back.

CM

 

there's some significant danger of fire with this experiment, especially if the motor is out of time - so i offer it up with a lot of warnings -

remove air filter. while cranking - hold throttle body open - move your head out of the way, and spray a shot of starting fluid down the TB. if it fires - and then dies, repeat the test giving it very small shots to try and keep it running.

this gives you an indication that the spark, timing and compression is ok, and you have a fuel delivery problem.

i've never tried this on a fuel injected vehicle - and this is SERIOUS danger of fire, but on carbed vehicles i pour a TINY shot of gas down the carb. i'd think you can do it on a FI, but assume its going to back fire and burn your eyeballs out, so keep your head out of the way.

PLEASE don't burn down your house or truck.

 

This is not recommended at all on any EFI vehicle. Now, if his truck is not backfiring through the intake, it's a non issue. He can safely measure voltages with a DVM/DMM without risk of explosion.

However, as you stated, yes, if there's a backfiring condition present through the intake, yes, there's a potential situation that could manifest as an engine bay fire.

CM

 

this is a question - assume for a moment that while he had the fuel line disconnected at the rail and the intake off, that a big hairy grasshopper crawled into the fuel rail to hibernate..... wouldn't an electrical test of the injectors show good, while fuel delivery was impaired due to blockage ?

what's the best way to prove that you have fuel delivery through the injectors ?

 

Ok i will check the input i checked it before and it was low but now im getting a hot spark ,but i will check it again

no codes have shown up

if the alternator is for some reason not wrking will it still not start with fully charged battery

 

Dammit indy i want your truck

 

The answer is, no, it will not. The EFI system runs off the power produced by the ALT. The bat is only there to keep the RAM alive at the PCM and to fire the starter. When voltage is measured on any supply line- this voltage is equal to what the ALT is putting out.

Measure the voltage as the ASD input and the injector input and it's at ALT output voltage not battery voltage.

TO further add to that, the ALT is directly connected to the battery thus the reason why one measures ~14 volts vs. 12 when running. This voltage flows through the same cables that connect to the battery thus feeding the entire system.

The battery is merely a load box and just used to start it and keep the PCM memory alive.