You see, I had mentioned about blockage at that level prior. Mainly, ice to be specific. When lines are removed, air and moisture ends up in the lines.

The ethanol in fuel attracts the water molecules from the entrapped air in the lines thus making it far more susceptible to freeze.

Now, I had him measure pressure and, he reported that all was well within spec as he'd reported 47PSI at the rail.

To further add to that, bugs repel from gas fumes like mad. It's toxic. Unless the line has been vacant for a while, then, yeah, I think so but, in this case, I'm not so sure on that one. The only other thing that just came to mind is, ice up at the injector valve body.

Now, that's something that I forgot about. I had asked him if he's in freezing climate but did not see any response.

 

ok i will check all those inputs. Do i check them while someone else is cranking it . and i will take the alternator to get checked. it will prob b a day or a few days maybe before i can do these becuase im pretty busy.

 

Im no rocket doctor,but it sure sounds like your distributor wasnt lined up correctly.Can you bring the motor to TDC on #1 cylinder and see where your rotor pointing to?Did you line up the crank gear and cam gear when you replaced the chain?

 

He stated he never moved / touched it. The only thing he did was change the intake. Immediately afterwards, he experienced a no-start no-run condition. He then spoke to the dealership where they told him it jumped timing at the chain thus leading him to change out his timing chain. This was done after the fact that he had experienced the no start condition. We went through all the possible root cause and affect of all systems involved and have ruled out a few things other than some open items as listed below.

He's still has to run one set of action items involving the ignition system-checking voltages.

What we don't know is whether something in his charging system is not functioning thus leading to a no-voltage condition for running the EFI system. He's got battery voltage to crank over but, so far, we are waiting on the status of the ALT output as well as verification of the voltage at the coil input.

CM

 

In regards to your questions: VERIFY VOLTAGE AT COIL INPUT

You will need someone to turn the key to <ON> but DO NOT START IT

You have aproximately 3-seconds to obtain a reading before the PCM senses a no run condition and the timer trips the auto shut down command thus cutting all power by denergizing the ASD relay. At this point, no power will be seen at the EFI system level.

VERIFY ALT OUTPUT VOLTAGE

You can do this yourself by simply measuring across the battery and placing the DVM, DMM facing you so you can read it while your turning it over.

Clamp the test leads across the battery to prevent them from falling off due to vibration.

You will see ~12 volts from the battery.

Turn the engine over just long enough to obtain a reading on the display.

You will see an increase in voltage which should be ~ 13.5 volts. It may be slightly less or slightly higher.

If no increase is seen: you have an issue with your charging system thus leading to a no-voltage / under voltage condition.

If increase is seen: the ALT OUTPUT is functioning.

Let's start here first and see what we got. One step at a time.

CM

 

Yea,I read what he posted.I asked him if he actually checked the position.Its not as exciting as using laser beams from space,but I figured he might want to check the BASICS,where you seem to get lost.

 

Looks like you missed (got lost) on post No 11 where I already covered the "BASICS" regarding the dizzy long before you posted. Please see below. CM

 

Big difference in asking whether its right and VERIFYING it.Thats in the first chapter of Wrenching for dummies.Spare me another long winded diatribe on mechanical theory.It might impress some wet cherry,but not a professional wrench.You blast a dealership for making a poor diagnosis,then run this guy on some goose chase.Its fairly obvious he has installed something incorrectly,and after verifying the basics,he might actually figure out what.Im sure thats not as exciting as syncing his radio ***** up with a DRB or anything,but it gets the job done.Step out of the forrest son,your missing all the trees.

 

I didn't run the guy on a goose chase but went by the information that he provided and, at that time, the way he worded things, he made it sound like it was sensor related as see in the following quotes:

and this That gave me the impression that it was sensor related early on. However, I simply didn't have clear information to go by until later. The entire reason about the DRB section was due to those comments not to just spout off technical jargon.

This is why you can see the post takes a turn of troubleshooting at post No 7 where, It led me to believe that he had a pre-existing condition which turned out to not be the case as was seen later on. Because he had not made it entirely clear on the sequence and, there was some confusion on my behalf, things went the way they did.

He removed the Alt so, there's a possibility for error so, you check that along with all the other things that were changed or removed as was the fuel line, the ALT etc and you check those and you verify voltage at various points in the system to at least see if you've got voltage or not. No voltage in, no voltage out thus no spark as was indicated in his response by saying he had no spark at all. No fire condition. So, I believe I approached this as the information was presented.

Now, the dealer stated that he jumped timing. Remember now, he claims it ran fine right up to the point before he fixed the plenum so, the question is: how does it come to be that the timing chain just jumped while sitting in the garage during the intake changeover? And, to further add to that, based on the fact that he didn't touch the diz, I have a hard time with that diagnosis because it just doesn't seem likely that the distributor is out of alignment therefore, the reason why I didn't recommend verifying it's position. I simply asked if it was moved and the response was "NO" so, logically, you rule that out and move on to the next possible cause along with conducting some basic tests such as checking for voltages.

I don't see you helping him nor providing any step by step instructions on how to. Only to check this or that. But, no means of doing so. I do the best I can to provide clear and easy to follow instructions when applicable so that the readers can take those process steps and apply them in real world use.

I also feel it's important to include the fine details of how an electrical system works right down to component level if need be. To some it may be way too much information while to others, they like that fine detail. Sometimes they thank me for the information on how something works. Some people like to learn how things work or function at the system level or at the PCM program level.

The more you know about a system, the easier it is to trouble shoot because you understand how it works and know what does what thus making it simpler to work on.

So, like I said, I do the best I can and, some may not like it or, think that it's done for personal gains- such could be further from the truth. It's all done with the sole intention of providing help. As "basic" as that.

CM

 

yes the timing chain is on right, and yes i checked the rotor postion when its TDC and i know it sounds timing related but so far i have found nothing that would cause it.......so far


and yes i appreciate all of the fine details im given they help me very much. If i could i would buy you some beer or something to show u thanks. I also like learning advanced stuff about my motor that i didnt know before. Sorry to slow the process bbut i havnt had time to look at my truck lately and wont for probably a few days.