When replacing radiators in our trucks, it is a good idea to NOT over torque the two (2) mounting bolts at the top, or the four (4) fan shroud mounting bolts. The torque spec for the 2 top mounting bolts is 95 in lbs. The torque spec for the fan shroud mounting bolts is 55 in lbs.
These specs are from my 99 fac service manual. If you notice, the 4 fan shroud mounting surfaces are part of the plastic tanks, on either side. If these are over torqued, it will put pressure on the tanks in that area, and could be the cause of cracks there. I have seen 3 trucks with cracks in this area.
Just some thoughts to pass on.

barracudadave67 aka Dave C.

 

Thanks all, Right after i posted the line finally released!


But bad news. The ''adapters'' that came with the rad with not work. And also where the upper trans line goes into the rad is way lower than stock(around 3 inches) So i got to thinking. If im going to lowes anyway to find some connecters that will adapt i might as well do somthing different.

So i got this stuff.
3 foot trans line
2 1/4'' thread/ 3/8'' barbed end conections (Going to screw into rad for trans line hookups and use the clamps to hold hose on barbed end)
8 fuel injection system hose clamps(4 not pictured)
1 mini tubing cutter




Yes im deleting the check valve too and cutting off the conections on the hard line and slipping the 3/8 trans line over the hard line, clamping it on. Got this idea in a thread on here. I beleive it was dhvaughan's post and pic that gave me the idea... The upper will be replaced with the solid black trans line pictured also...and clamped over the barbed end on the rad.


With this ill do away will all OEM parts in this area. Getting rid of all stock connections. Including the stupid quick connect crap. With the barbed end ''nipples'' i should have a good no leaky or slip off when clamped on conection .

Bye bye stock upper


Pics comming when done..Whenever that may be. Cause its about to start raining, and supposed to do so for 2 full days. sucks

What do you think? Good idea? See any problems with my idea?

 

here's some pics you might have already seen.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ter-added.html

the only thing to watch out for, is to make sure your barbed fittings don't stick out too far, where they might get hit or damaged by something. notice how your stock top fitting turns down 90* to get out of the way. consider keeping that 90* downward bend, and cutting off the stock hose. if theres a little flare on the end of the tube that you can use, use it. otherwise cut it off with your tubing cutter.

instead of barbs, i just used the tubing cutter to cut of the excess from the stock radiator fittings, and re-bent the top one towards the cooler.

 

now my 97 is leaking from the driver side iv noticed to for about a week now but iv got to wait for my electric fan and thermostat iv got the radiator but i want to do it all in 1 is this the same problem?

 

Thanks dhvaughan! Im pretty much done with everything now. Here's the final setup.


Bye bye check valve




I used thread sealer tape for the rad connections. Good to +500'F all the way down to -450'F, Meets military spec...











I had to use a washer between the shroud mounting spot and the shroud at each mounting location. Because it just would not really ''fit'' to the rad like it should. (There were spaces between the mounting points)

The washers will allow the shround to fit and mount perfectly!





The check valve delete went smooth. The pipe cutter worked great. Notice in one pic it looks like i didnt double clamp over the hard line where the check valve used to be.. This was just done to take the pic. Im not yet done. I havent put any trans fluid back in either. Im guessing i should only put in a half a quart of tranny fluid at first?



On another note THANK GOD IT DIDNT RAIN!!!!!!

 

looks good. is it my imagination or did you leave the OEM return line on between the frame and the cooler ? what's the condition of that hose ? if old, would this be a good time to replace it too ?

to get the oem line off at the frame, you can either slice the crimp to minimize loss of hard line, or just take the tubing cutter and cut the pipe at the end of the crimp. i took my time to slice the crimp with a dremel tool but that wasn't really necessary, as all i accomplished was saving 1 or 2 inches of hard line, which doesn't make a damn bit of difference.


edit - check trans fluid level with engine running, trans in neutral NOT park. pump doesn't run in park. 1/2 qt is a good start, try not to overfill.

 

Thanks man! Yea i did leave the return line. But since you metioned it im gonna replace it too. Ill just use the pipe cutter and cut the crimp and oem line off with it like i did with the other. After all, Its a peice of cake and quick to use so should be no prob. Plus i have some trans line left i need to use.

Ill report back when all is done. Ill probly try to finish tonight. If the rain stays off of course...

 

I was told by an older radiator specialist the reason for the plastic failing on these factory radiators is the molds used caused the plastic to get thinner as they aged. He rebilt mine with after market parts for $75 and was good as new. So if you need to save a buck try the radiator shop and renew yours when it fails or sooner.

 

If possible i need a quick reply from this.

Everything is done and i bled the cooling system of air and the fluids are ALL back in. (1/2 quart was perfect for trans)

Now, I have no leaks on anything. Just as dry as can be everywhere. Except. I have a small seep on the upper trans line connection where the ''fitting'' Screw in to the rad. I guess the thread seal tap ripped on me when screwing it in to the rad. I wanna fix this and put some fresh seal tape on it. Can i unscrew the connection right now and do that? Shouldnt be any pressure right? Please let me know, i wanna drive it.

Any help or response is appreiciated.


Here's a pic of the seep.




See how the tape has a red tint to it where it screws to the rad...

 

pressure is on the system only when the engine is running. so - all you have to do is remove it, retape it, and re-install. the only fluid you would lose is whatever can run out via gravity.