:lol:

Drill it like stated above.

if the drums are still turning, especially when you apply the brakes, I don't think they even need backing off to remove the drum unless you have one heck of a lip in there in which case everything in there is shot from a metal on metal condition. are you sure the drum isn't just rusted to the hub?

Recently I've had to deal with replacing/removing drums on several different cars. I've used all kinds of hammers, tried backing off the star wheel, penetrating oil, gentle prying but still no go. One thing that worked every time was a good size sledge hammer. Not regular or ball peen hammer, not rubber mallet, but a regular (7 to 10 lbs maybe) sledge hammer. Hit at 12 and 6 o'clock.

You know I was thinking the same thing. They turn alright and Just barely have the sound of a slight drag to it. I really tried to knock it off with a BFH (8lb sledge held short) and used a ton of break free and AZ's WD so if they are rusted they are really rusted. I have never been accused of not useing enough force before

Just read your reply after posting my last F it I'm gonna go swing again

yea swing that bad boy. Dont hold it short. Avoid hitting your studs and drum weights if equipped (unless you plan on replacing the drum).

did not do a damn thing... Weather is coming this way...grrr

just a thought, but if you were to take this thing to any local chain garage. I bet they would do a brake check/estimate for next to nothing if not free. there by removing your drums with their air tools etc. (which you could then remove easier at home) plus provide you with their findings.

you might try the drive thing, but apply the emergency brake , i know the drive thing works real good when you have brake pedal been there done that.