Thinking of dropping oil pan...
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
ok, so -
its not necessary to lift the engine, nor jack up the truck.
you might/might not? have to drop the y-pipe. i did not on my 01.
remove braces, starter, flex plate dust cover, oil pan.
removal is a one man job. reinstall is easier with a helper.
someone had a good tip to tie the gasket to the pan in the 4 corners with thread.
you WILL need a torque wrench for retorqueing main bearing caps.
pay attention and do this right. use the proper torque sequence.
you do need to remove the rear cap, and loosen all the others. this lets the crank drop a smidgen.
DO NOT score the crank. push on the end of the seal and it begins to slide out the other side. grab the other side with a pair of pliers and pull. if the old seal won't come out, then loosen the bearing caps a little more. don't force it. if the old seal won't come out, then the new seal ain't going in, so don't force it.
pay attention to the seal. there's a right and wrong. don't put it in backwards.
protect the edge of the seal as you slide it in. don't cut it on the sharp edge of the lip.
use loctite 515 and RTV per haynes manual.
DO NOT score the crank.
if you replace the oil pump, position the pickup tube properly. prime the pump
pay attention to the fit of the oil pump on the dist shaft. make sure the oil pump seats properly, else it will crack when tightened up.
see the tech article on pavementsucks for some pics.
see haynes manual.
its not necessary to lift the engine, nor jack up the truck.
you might/might not? have to drop the y-pipe. i did not on my 01.
remove braces, starter, flex plate dust cover, oil pan.
removal is a one man job. reinstall is easier with a helper.
someone had a good tip to tie the gasket to the pan in the 4 corners with thread.
you WILL need a torque wrench for retorqueing main bearing caps.
pay attention and do this right. use the proper torque sequence.
you do need to remove the rear cap, and loosen all the others. this lets the crank drop a smidgen.
DO NOT score the crank. push on the end of the seal and it begins to slide out the other side. grab the other side with a pair of pliers and pull. if the old seal won't come out, then loosen the bearing caps a little more. don't force it. if the old seal won't come out, then the new seal ain't going in, so don't force it.
pay attention to the seal. there's a right and wrong. don't put it in backwards.
protect the edge of the seal as you slide it in. don't cut it on the sharp edge of the lip.
use loctite 515 and RTV per haynes manual.
DO NOT score the crank.
if you replace the oil pump, position the pickup tube properly. prime the pump
pay attention to the fit of the oil pump on the dist shaft. make sure the oil pump seats properly, else it will crack when tightened up.
see the tech article on pavementsucks for some pics.
see haynes manual.
Record Breaker
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,669
Likes: 4
From: The Buckeye State... OHIO
hey guys.. beening looking into doing this as well... my gasket is taking a crap by the pulleys up front and need replaced... pan is starting to rust and would like to clean the screen too... going to do my tranny pan as well with a mag-hy 727-DD...
anyways.... besides the stock pan from autozone... are there any other pans on the market?
anyways.... besides the stock pan from autozone... are there any other pans on the market?