no power to coil??
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Burnsville, mn - Pensacola, fl
Ok i was hesitating suggesting this because most people will tell you that im full of **** but i actually hydro locked my jimmy once when my spider injector got stuck open and kept flooding the engine as soon as you turned the key on. after i got the injector fixed i took all the plugs out, spun over the engine a couple short burst's and blew out all the gas.
it will get EVERYWHERE and will smell strong as hell for a short period of time. but it worked great as soon as i put my plugs back in after whiping off all the raw gas off the engine bay and she fired right up and never had a problem outta her.
BUT!! now i have a new problem.. i think through all the starting attempts, i flooded the cylinders. its turning over as before, but still not igniting fully. im gettin some fuel smelling white-ish smoke through the TB after each attempt to start it now. (something is burning atleast..) and im also getting a WOP WOP sound, sorta like a plunger sound. im guesing its the cylinders compressing the fuel. but not igniting.
it will get EVERYWHERE and will smell strong as hell for a short period of time. but it worked great as soon as i put my plugs back in after whiping off all the raw gas off the engine bay and she fired right up and never had a problem outta her.
BUT!! now i have a new problem.. i think through all the starting attempts, i flooded the cylinders. its turning over as before, but still not igniting fully. im gettin some fuel smelling white-ish smoke through the TB after each attempt to start it now. (something is burning atleast..) and im also getting a WOP WOP sound, sorta like a plunger sound. im guesing its the cylinders compressing the fuel. but not igniting.
I guess that will work. The only concern with applying that method is risk of fire. If there's live voltage anywhere in the vehicle- including live ignition wires, that's a little risky.
I would disable the coil prior to doing that for sure along with draping clean shop rags over those open plug openings in attempt to contain the fuel.
One other note of caution is: around the plug holes, debris (sand, dirt etc) builds up around the plug holes. When the motor is being turned over, there's also vacuum at those plug holes thus allowing a potential for debris to become lodged under a valve thus chipping it, jamming it or preventing it from seating.
Prior to removing the plugs, all debris must be removed prior to doing that.
Other than that, I think that's not a bad idea at all.
I was concerned with hydro-ing. That's one of the first that came to mind with raw gas in the chamber. I hope that there was not enough gas to cause that to occur in this case.
CM
I would disable the coil prior to doing that for sure along with draping clean shop rags over those open plug openings in attempt to contain the fuel.
One other note of caution is: around the plug holes, debris (sand, dirt etc) builds up around the plug holes. When the motor is being turned over, there's also vacuum at those plug holes thus allowing a potential for debris to become lodged under a valve thus chipping it, jamming it or preventing it from seating.
Prior to removing the plugs, all debris must be removed prior to doing that.
Other than that, I think that's not a bad idea at all.
I was concerned with hydro-ing. That's one of the first that came to mind with raw gas in the chamber. I hope that there was not enough gas to cause that to occur in this case.
CM
Banned
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,667
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From: Burnsville, mn - Pensacola, fl
basicly when a engine hydro locks you turn the key and you can hear the starter inguage but nothing happens, or it will spin over very slowly for a second then the starter will kick off again, mainly when an engine hydro lock's it fills the cyl's full of gas which "fills the open void" in the cyl's which keep the pistons from being able to move freely, thus not moving at all and locking up.
pulling the plugs and turning the engine over a couple of time's will free the engine if it is hydro locked, the spark plugs will faul out if you are locked up and when you pull them out usaully they'er going to be coverd in raw gas or smell like raw gas depending on how much gas is in the cyls
pulling the plugs and turning the engine over a couple of time's will free the engine if it is hydro locked, the spark plugs will faul out if you are locked up and when you pull them out usaully they'er going to be coverd in raw gas or smell like raw gas depending on how much gas is in the cyls
Last edited by yakkier; Feb 11, 2010 at 03:26 PM.
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Similar issue : somebody help me!! Hopefully CM
I guess that will work. The only concern with applying that method is risk of fire. If there's live voltage anywhere in the vehicle- including live ignition wires, that's a little risky.
I would disable the coil prior to doing that for sure along with draping clean shop rags over those open plug openings in attempt to contain the fuel.
One other note of caution is: around the plug holes, debris (sand, dirt etc) builds up around the plug holes. When the motor is being turned over, there's also vacuum at those plug holes thus allowing a potential for debris to become lodged under a valve thus chipping it, jamming it or preventing it from seating.
Prior to removing the plugs, all debris must be removed prior to doing that.
Other than that, I think that's not a bad idea at all.
I was concerned with hydro-ing. That's one of the first that came to mind with raw gas in the chamber. I hope that there was not enough gas to cause that to occur in this case.
CM
I would disable the coil prior to doing that for sure along with draping clean shop rags over those open plug openings in attempt to contain the fuel.
One other note of caution is: around the plug holes, debris (sand, dirt etc) builds up around the plug holes. When the motor is being turned over, there's also vacuum at those plug holes thus allowing a potential for debris to become lodged under a valve thus chipping it, jamming it or preventing it from seating.
Prior to removing the plugs, all debris must be removed prior to doing that.
Other than that, I think that's not a bad idea at all.
I was concerned with hydro-ing. That's one of the first that came to mind with raw gas in the chamber. I hope that there was not enough gas to cause that to occur in this case.
CM
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Clayton MI
I’m having a similar issue in my 2009 dodge charger act I had some subwoofers hooked up and then had a big three upgrade done so I wouldn’t drain too much power but I never upgraded my alternator. Anyways my issue is my ignition coil relay keeps blowing everytime I turn my key over. So my car cranks well sounds like it’s trying to crank but doesn’t get that spark to it needs to start. After I googled what was going on it says I probably have a bad ground somewhere. Also when I test my fuses with the test light one side of the fuse lights up but the other side of the fuse doesn’t and I know both sides of the fuse is suppose to light up.. anyways I traced every wire I could think of and can’t find a bad ground anywhere at all. Can someone please help me and tell me what I might be missing or where I might have a bad ground or anything I can do to make that fuse stop blowing…PLEASE!!!!!
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🤷🏾♂️🤷🏾♂️
my bad I don’t even know how I got here I was just seeing a lot of similar issues n forgot I kept navigating to a different car😂😂