So i got my engine back together and ran it yesterday. New heads, comp 20-604-9 cam, bbk 52mm throttle body, M1 intake, and 26lb injectors. No leaks or crazy noises, but when I hit the gas from an idle it sometimes stalls and when I'm driving and roll up to a stop it sometimes stalls. Sounds like ignition timing is off, but I don't know how to check it or what the timing is supposed to be set at. Any suggestions? It is a 360 magnum in an 01 ram.

 

The timing is NOT adjustable. The Distributor needs to be install at absolute TDC with the #1 piston. Then, the fuel sync needs to be set with a capable scan tool.

 

First issue I noted immediately is the size of your injectors. Why may I ask are you running 26 lb injectors on a 360? I can see the 52MM TB but, 26 lbs are usually for a 408 stroker! I ran 24s in my 318 and I had to really do some work at the PCM to trim the fuel input way way down as those were rated for modded / bored 350.

Now, your at a 360 that's stock displacement? IF so, I think you should be running 24s NOT 26s - that's way too much fuel. Your most likely running way too rich like I was on my 318 initially.

Are you bored / oversized on the piston size? Are you running a custom tune that compensates for those?

If the answer is NO for those, I do believe that those are over what your looking at.

We can actually calculate that out by the amount of HP vs. the flow rate @ ~50 psi along with the pump output flow rate to then determine the GPH / No of cyls which, then, tells you what size injectors you should be running.

Now, I am going by my memory based on some HP charts and common FIs for 318-360 Magnums and, 408 stroker motors and, if I remember correctly, 24s were spec'd out for 360s while 26s were spec'd out for 408s. I may be incorrect or mistaken so, in the meantime, I am going to have to reference that just to be sure I am not accidentally posting bad information here.

Who is the manufacturer that makes your injectors? Accel, Bosch? Seimens? etc etc.

NOW< as far as the timing is concerned: the timing is electronically controlled at the PCM. The PCM controls the injector sequence, the coil pulse so, even if you attempt to advance / retard the timing via the diz- all bets are off and, what will happen is that the CPS timing will be out of sync with the CKPS.

These are the two MASTER sensors for controlling the timing as the CKPS is the crank sensor that all is referenced to. So, if you move the diz, the Hall Sensor that resides under the cover, will also move. When it moves, the timing of the electrical pulse that is sent to the PCM is going to be either delayed or advanced and will not be dead nuts to the crank sensor thus throwing the entire EFI system clocking out of whack.

In any event, do not attempt to adjust the diz.

CM

 

What do you guys suggest then? find an sct dealer out here and let them try to tune on it for a day....

 

I use SCT and, yeah, it works but, there's still a possible constraint and that is, the size of your injectors. They will not be able to time it either if it's out of time. All that tool does is re-FLASH the PCM.

SO, if your engine is F-d up to START, it will be F-d up after re-FLASH-ing the PCM.

What we don't know is what is the cause. It could be your injectors but, it also may be a lot of other things that will also cause that same thing to occur such as the following:

-bad fuel pump
-bad / intermittent coil
-faulty ASD relay
-faulty IAC- not letting enough air into the TB thus choking it out coupled with too much fuel- thus snuffing out the O2 / thus not burning it / thus stalling out.

Those are the main ones but, when I think of what's going on here, I ruled out the coil and ASD as if they were bad / faulty, it would crap out no matter what RPM you were running at and, without warning.

What I think is happening is this:

The throttle plates remain open when driving thus, more airflow thus, the O2 sensors are telling the PCM to lean out the mix but, with those inejctors, the fuel trims are most likely being over-ridden and, it's running way too rich.

Now, when you stop or slow down, the TPs will close thus snuffing out your air supply. The IAC now opens up to allow air into the system only problem is, if it's not working or, if there's so much fuel that it can't allow enough O2 to mix with the fuel- it starves of 02 thus throwing the A/F mix out of whack thus stalling it.

What we really need to do here is to first determine root cause/s for what your issue is, and, I still need to get more information from you as far as whether your motor is stock displacement or not. Since you did not state otherwise, I am going to assume that it is.

That being said, we need to first determine why it's stalling out.

But, before even discussing that, we really need to find out what injectors your running and start ruling things out.

Again, I'm going to ask you this again: who makes your inejctors? Where did you get them? Onlne or at OEM Dodge per your year?

I have already checked on this and, it looks like for your year, the Bosch 24lbs are the ones your supposed to put in their or, Siemens 24s. Are you running diesel or gas engine?

CM

 

I found my paperwork on the injectors. They are bosch and they are the 24's. My bad on that one. And I'm 100% sure that my distributor went in tdc with the rotor pointing at #1 plug wire. the stalling seems to be happening very little now as if the pcm is adapting, but it definitely doesn't have the power it should. No check engine light though and I ran a vacuum smoke test and found no leaks just to rule that out

 

Also forgot to mention but when I put my old superchip tuner in out of curiosity, it ran alittle better. I know the tuner changes timing and fuel, but not sure what else.

 

That's ok. I was going to say, because, the V10 uses 24s as well so, I knew something was out of whack there as soon as I noted that.

But, no problem. Here we are with 24s. So, at least we can rule out running too rich and not enough air etc etc.

But, now, we're at the point of starting all over again troubleshooting.

How about your fuel pressure? In the cold, this is becoming very common. I see a trend on here with many complaining of the same symptoms and, when I have them measure the fuel pressure, they state that it's low or, it bounces around.

I would first start off by verifying the pressure at the rails by using a decent fuel pressure gage. Crank the key to <ON> but don't start it. Just pressurize the system and see where it sits. In normal conditions, pressure should be ~50 psi on one key click. The lines are full of fuel and should pressurize up to that amount on ONE KEY click.

If it's below that amount, run ONE MORE key click. NOTE PRESSURE.

Repeat test again if it does not come up to full pressure. NOTE: IF IT DOES NOT COME UP TO PRESSURE AFTER 3 KEY <ON> attempts, the pump is faulty or you have a fuel leak, or perhaps a leaky injector.

NEXT TEST:

FUEL PRESSURE DROP TEST.

Once it hits full pressure of ~50 psi, your going to monitor it now for pressure drop.

It will drop and, this is NORMAL. However, it is to maintain 30 psi for 5 MIN.

If it passes that test: NEXT TEST

OPERATIONAL PRESSURE TEST

-with the engine warm and running monitor pressure.

-should be 49 psi ± 5 while operational

IF: if it falls below 44- there's a problem.

Start there and see what we've got.

CM

 

the cam that I chose has an operating range of 900-5200 rpm and it says will require computer modification. Could you see any of my problem being there? if minimum op range is 900 and my truck idles at 600-625, is that a problem?

 

No, it isnt a problem. What that means is you will see and feel the effects of the camshaft from 900 RPM to 5200 RPM.