Electric Specialist Needed 2nd Gen Ram2500 HELP!
#11
02-21-2010, 12:30 AM
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: TX
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+1 blackskyracing
It almost sounds as if they cross wired your lights somewhere so there is a backfeed problem. This would explain the removing of both grounds to kill power and your power wires do nothing. This is easily done if they only used black wire for the install.
They may have even bridged the wires wrong at the switch.
It almost sounds as if they cross wired your lights somewhere so there is a backfeed problem. This would explain the removing of both grounds to kill power and your power wires do nothing. This is easily done if they only used black wire for the install.
They may have even bridged the wires wrong at the switch.
Greenmachine,
Thanks for your reply,
-The Rallye 4000 Euro Beams and Rallye 4000 Cornering Beams are both hooked up to separate switches underneath the dash and have three wires:
-Brown - ground
-Blue - ???
-Yellow - ???
The Micro FF have two wires, wired in with backup lights,
-Black - ???
-Red - ???
The Rallye 4000 fog lights have only two wires
-Blue - ???
-Brown - ???
NO GROUND WIRE HERE!
I actually had to CUT the blue's off to MAKE them go off!
Is it perhaps a good Idea to have the shop rewire the whole deal to yet another separate switch,....AND have them replace my factory screwed up switch?
Thanks in advance once again!
Last edited by NICE_N_EEEZ; 02-21-2010 at 12:35 AM.
#12
02-21-2010, 01:04 AM
Champion
your factory one might be fine. I personally find it bad to work off the factory stuff. If something goes bad theres a hell of a lot of wires to search through.
The was another member on here that tapped into his switch and it ended up causing some issues. You should be able to find his thread pretty easy if you wanna look. He just posted it a few days ago.
I'm not the best when it comes to wiring. I'll admit that. I sometimes (most of the time lol) don't use fuses. I'm trying to get better about that. I don't recall anything i've wired not working though.
If they don't get ya figured out let me know. I'm running through how i would hook your lights up in my head
The was another member on here that tapped into his switch and it ended up causing some issues. You should be able to find his thread pretty easy if you wanna look. He just posted it a few days ago.
I'm not the best when it comes to wiring. I'll admit that. I sometimes (most of the time lol) don't use fuses. I'm trying to get better about that. I don't recall anything i've wired not working though.
If they don't get ya figured out let me know. I'm running through how i would hook your lights up in my head
#13
02-21-2010, 01:15 AM
Legend
#14
02-21-2010, 11:17 AM
Join Date: Feb 2010
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What does a new factory replacement switch exactly run for? $$$
The Low beams and high beams are still working on the same switch, and CAN be turned on and off.
It's only the fog lights that won't go off,..... the little GREEN "fog light indicator" bottom left of factory switch STILL comes on and STAYS ON no matter what!
Is the factory switch then still fried,....or does it become a dif prob then?!?!?!
**Was just thinking**
Does WELD work (WITHOUT disconnecting the batteries) perhaps FRY switches?
My truck DID have some weld work you know.
Maybe the Shop-welder "forgot" to disconnect the batteries for a moment?
I don't know,...I'm just guessing here!
The only thing Im worried about is that if I don't have the factory switch replaced that the little GREEN "fog light indicator" ,........being ON 24/7 will eventually run HOT!
And in worsed case scenario it'll melt the switch or even cause fire.
-The Rallye 4000 Euro Beams and Rallye 4000 Cornering Beams are both hooked up to separate switches underneath the dash and have three wires:
-Brown - ground
-Blue - ???
-Yellow - ???
- Every set has a 30AMP inline fuse
The Micro FF have two wires, wired in with backup lights,
-Black - ???
-Red - ???
The Rallye 4000 fog lights have only two wires
-Blue - ???
-Brown - ???
NO GROUND wire here!
I actually had to CUT the blue's off to MAKE them go off!
Is it maybe a good Idea to have the shop rewire the whole deal to yet another separate switch,....AND have them replace my factory screwed up switch?
And THEN go to the Dodge dealer and have them hook up the diagnostics computer, to find out/trace if there is ANY wire "backfeeding" / "touching metal" anywhere?
Or does a diagnostics computer NOT do that?
Is there another way to trace "backfeed" probs?
I'm kinda worried now,.....I'm not really keen on leaving my batteries hookup,......while a plausible/possible "backfeed" problem migh cause a FIRE!
Does anyone have any idea's?
Please reply/fire away!
Thanks in advance once again!
The Low beams and high beams are still working on the same switch, and CAN be turned on and off.
It's only the fog lights that won't go off,..... the little GREEN "fog light indicator" bottom left of factory switch STILL comes on and STAYS ON no matter what!
Is the factory switch then still fried,....or does it become a dif prob then?!?!?!
**Was just thinking**
Does WELD work (WITHOUT disconnecting the batteries) perhaps FRY switches?
My truck DID have some weld work you know.
Maybe the Shop-welder "forgot" to disconnect the batteries for a moment?
I don't know,...I'm just guessing here!
The only thing Im worried about is that if I don't have the factory switch replaced that the little GREEN "fog light indicator" ,........being ON 24/7 will eventually run HOT!
And in worsed case scenario it'll melt the switch or even cause fire.
-The Rallye 4000 Euro Beams and Rallye 4000 Cornering Beams are both hooked up to separate switches underneath the dash and have three wires:
-Brown - ground
-Blue - ???
-Yellow - ???
- Every set has a 30AMP inline fuse
The Micro FF have two wires, wired in with backup lights,
-Black - ???
-Red - ???
The Rallye 4000 fog lights have only two wires
-Blue - ???
-Brown - ???
NO GROUND wire here!
I actually had to CUT the blue's off to MAKE them go off!
Is it maybe a good Idea to have the shop rewire the whole deal to yet another separate switch,....AND have them replace my factory screwed up switch?
And THEN go to the Dodge dealer and have them hook up the diagnostics computer, to find out/trace if there is ANY wire "backfeeding" / "touching metal" anywhere?
Or does a diagnostics computer NOT do that?
Is there another way to trace "backfeed" probs?
I'm kinda worried now,.....I'm not really keen on leaving my batteries hookup,......while a plausible/possible "backfeed" problem migh cause a FIRE!
Does anyone have any idea's?
Please reply/fire away!
Thanks in advance once again!
#15
02-21-2010, 11:50 AM
Record Breaker
my 100 watt rollbar lights are wired up completely independant of the factory wiring. I used relays and sufficient gauge wiring and run them off a lighted toggle switch I installed. I wouldn't even run a tiny LED off the factory switch, after hearing and seeing so many people burning them up...
The ONLY thing you should really do is take it back to the shop that 'professionally' installed the lights and have them troubleshoot their own work. hope everything works out for ya, and welcome to DF!
The ONLY thing you should really do is take it back to the shop that 'professionally' installed the lights and have them troubleshoot their own work. hope everything works out for ya, and welcome to DF!
#16
02-21-2010, 03:29 PM
Maxx_Magnum is correct. The factory switches sometimes fry with the amount of electricity running through it from just the factory lights, let alone anything extra. Everything extra should be ran off of extra relays and switches, not the stock unit.
Take it back to the shop, as others have suggested, and make 'em do it right.
Welcome to DF!
Take it back to the shop, as others have suggested, and make 'em do it right.
Welcome to DF!
#17
02-21-2010, 04:23 PM
Record Breaker
Dodge Ram 2500 Truck specs:
-Year: 2002
-2nd Gen Ram 2500 5.9 /24Valve inline 6 Diesel,
Long story short:
My truck was all standard untill about two months ago, then I hit a 12 Pointer.
I dont have any pic's of my truck's front end being pretty much total, because my truck went straight to a shop to fix it all!
But instead of restoring it "factory",....well,....some things got changed.
-Ranch hand (Legend Series) front and rear full bumper replacements
-2" Level kit,
-4 X New rotors, calipers and brake pads all around,
-20" X 8.5" XD BLACK Rockstars with Toyo Open Country tires,- 33X12.50X20LT
-2 X Hella Rallye 4000 Euro Beam Lights,
-2 X Hella Rallye 4000 Cornering Beam Lights,
-2 X Hella Rallye 4000 Halogen Fog Lights,
-2 X Hella Micro FF Fog Lamp Kit - as extra backing up lights on rear Ranch Hand bumper.
This whole list,...several $GRAND all together was professionally installed/fixed at ONE shop!
Problem?
All of the aftermarket Hella lights are professionally installed, mainly due to the fact that I am just no good with electrics.
Electricity and me are kinda like "water and fire", so for my trucks safety (fire) and my own,.......I stay away from it.
However,....last night 12 hours after finally picking up my truck from the professional shop who fixed it all,
I went out to find me about a mile long straight flat stretch of dark road - free of any traffic - to AIM all the added lights.
After aiming the backing up light: Micro FF, Euro Beams and Cornering Beams,...turned all of them off and it was time to aim the fog lights.
The fog lights are wired in with the "factory" (pull out) switch.
After aiming them about 25 mins later,.....I could NOT turn them off anymore, no matter what I did.
-Pulling the relay - they stay ON - pushed the relay back in. / (the relay was at pulling time by the way BLOODY HOT)
-Taking the keys OUT of the ignition - they stay ON!
-Pulling the relay AND taking the keys out of the ignition - they STILL stay ON!
The ONLY way to get them off is either disconnect the batteries or CUT the wires of the new HELLA Rallye 4000 Halogen Fog Lights.
Can't really have disconnected batteries all the time,...so I had too CUT them off.
Even with reconnecting the batteries (only the NEGATIVE's) after 12 hours the little "fog light indicator" bottom left of factory switch STILL comes ON!
Another strange thing: disconnect both POSITIVES fog-lights are still ON,......reconnected them.
Disconnecting ONE NEGATIVE (either side-left or right batterie),...lights are STILL ON,........they ONLY go off when BOTH NEGATIVES are off?!?!?!?! WTF?
-The factory Fog Lights are 37 watt's, the Hella Rallye 4000 fog lights are 55 watt's.
Do you perhaps think that the relay need to be of a heavier caliber?
-Is there a way to measure the current flow through the relay?
If so,...how????
I know,....that I should go back to the SHOP that did it all and let them handle the prob,...but if it's just the relay,....I can replace that myself.
I'm just asking all of this to you Electric Specialists,.....so that I have something to say incase the professional SHOP doesn't want to corperate!,...................You know,....trying to blame it on my truck's AGE, MILAGE (110K) or factory wiring.
Where as,....I never had ANY probs with the electrical system before the 12 pointer hit!
Infact,....even with leaving my headlights ON all night,....my truck would still start in the morning,....no probs at all there!
Can someone explain ALL of this in PLAIN English???
Meaning without a whole bunch of electrical terminology!
Thanks in advance DF guys & girls!
Regards NICE_N_EEEZ
-Year: 2002
-2nd Gen Ram 2500 5.9 /24Valve inline 6 Diesel,
Long story short:
My truck was all standard untill about two months ago, then I hit a 12 Pointer.
I dont have any pic's of my truck's front end being pretty much total, because my truck went straight to a shop to fix it all!
But instead of restoring it "factory",....well,....some things got changed.
-Ranch hand (Legend Series) front and rear full bumper replacements
-2" Level kit,
-4 X New rotors, calipers and brake pads all around,
-20" X 8.5" XD BLACK Rockstars with Toyo Open Country tires,- 33X12.50X20LT
-2 X Hella Rallye 4000 Euro Beam Lights,
-2 X Hella Rallye 4000 Cornering Beam Lights,
-2 X Hella Rallye 4000 Halogen Fog Lights,
-2 X Hella Micro FF Fog Lamp Kit - as extra backing up lights on rear Ranch Hand bumper.
This whole list,...several $GRAND all together was professionally installed/fixed at ONE shop!
Problem?
All of the aftermarket Hella lights are professionally installed, mainly due to the fact that I am just no good with electrics.
Electricity and me are kinda like "water and fire", so for my trucks safety (fire) and my own,.......I stay away from it.
However,....last night 12 hours after finally picking up my truck from the professional shop who fixed it all,
I went out to find me about a mile long straight flat stretch of dark road - free of any traffic - to AIM all the added lights.
After aiming the backing up light: Micro FF, Euro Beams and Cornering Beams,...turned all of them off and it was time to aim the fog lights.
The fog lights are wired in with the "factory" (pull out) switch.
After aiming them about 25 mins later,.....I could NOT turn them off anymore, no matter what I did.
-Pulling the relay - they stay ON - pushed the relay back in. / (the relay was at pulling time by the way BLOODY HOT)
-Taking the keys OUT of the ignition - they stay ON!
-Pulling the relay AND taking the keys out of the ignition - they STILL stay ON!
The ONLY way to get them off is either disconnect the batteries or CUT the wires of the new HELLA Rallye 4000 Halogen Fog Lights.
Can't really have disconnected batteries all the time,...so I had too CUT them off.
Even with reconnecting the batteries (only the NEGATIVE's) after 12 hours the little "fog light indicator" bottom left of factory switch STILL comes ON!
Another strange thing: disconnect both POSITIVES fog-lights are still ON,......reconnected them.
Disconnecting ONE NEGATIVE (either side-left or right batterie),...lights are STILL ON,........they ONLY go off when BOTH NEGATIVES are off?!?!?!?! WTF?
-The factory Fog Lights are 37 watt's, the Hella Rallye 4000 fog lights are 55 watt's.
Do you perhaps think that the relay need to be of a heavier caliber?
-Is there a way to measure the current flow through the relay?
If so,...how????
I know,....that I should go back to the SHOP that did it all and let them handle the prob,...but if it's just the relay,....I can replace that myself.
I'm just asking all of this to you Electric Specialists,.....so that I have something to say incase the professional SHOP doesn't want to corperate!,...................You know,....trying to blame it on my truck's AGE, MILAGE (110K) or factory wiring.
Where as,....I never had ANY probs with the electrical system before the 12 pointer hit!
Infact,....even with leaving my headlights ON all night,....my truck would still start in the morning,....no probs at all there!
Can someone explain ALL of this in PLAIN English???
Meaning without a whole bunch of electrical terminology!
Thanks in advance DF guys & girls!
Regards NICE_N_EEEZ
Dave
#18
02-21-2010, 04:39 PM
All Star
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Jax Fl.
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Greenmachine,
Thanks for your reply,
-The Rallye 4000 Euro Beams and Rallye 4000 Cornering Beams are both hooked up to separate switches underneath the dash and have three wires:
-Brown - ground
-Blue - ???
-Yellow - ???
The Micro FF have two wires, wired in with backup lights,
-Black - ???
-Red - ???
The Rallye 4000 fog lights have only two wires
-Blue - ???
-Brown - ???
NO GROUND WIRE HERE!
I actually had to CUT the blue's off to MAKE them go off!
Is it perhaps a good Idea to have the shop rewire the whole deal to yet another separate switch,....AND have them replace my factory screwed up switch?
Thanks in advance once again!
Thanks for your reply,
-The Rallye 4000 Euro Beams and Rallye 4000 Cornering Beams are both hooked up to separate switches underneath the dash and have three wires:
-Brown - ground
-Blue - ???
-Yellow - ???
The Micro FF have two wires, wired in with backup lights,
-Black - ???
-Red - ???
The Rallye 4000 fog lights have only two wires
-Blue - ???
-Brown - ???
NO GROUND WIRE HERE!
I actually had to CUT the blue's off to MAKE them go off!
Is it perhaps a good Idea to have the shop rewire the whole deal to yet another separate switch,....AND have them replace my factory screwed up switch?
Thanks in advance once again!
#19
02-21-2010, 10:51 PM
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: TX
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