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CANT SEE the pics in DIY

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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 12:22 PM
  #11  
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Porting and polishing the heads on these motors is a waste of time for a DD. This type of engine work is designed for high revving engines, not low rpm city driving and offroading. Unless the heads are poorly designed to begin with, you will see no appreciable gain from this and could actually hurt your low end performance if done improperly. The whole point of porting and polishing the heads is to reduce any restriction to the flow of the intake charge. This is really only beneficial at high, maintained rpm. The texture of the stock intake ports actually helps fuel atomization at lower rpms by creating a small amount of turbulence that helps mix the air and fuel on its way to the cylinder. Polishing it out is a bad idea for an engine that spends most of its time in the low rpm range.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 05:43 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by zman17
PURP, If you want to save a little time, why don't you just take pics that a mod can insert into the existing DIY in the appropriate locations. Then you can move on to your next modification. I'm actually doing mine sometime this week, and was contemplating doing just that. I'm kind of wobbly taking picks right now though! LOL
I dont want to deal with the moderators (Sorry Jason. J/K ).
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 01:01 PM
  #13  
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thanks 4 clearing that up for me miami. So correct me if im wrong, from the searches and polls i have seen on here, to get the low end power im looking 4, gears would be a good idea. The poll didnt really tell me anything, but i want to be able 2 stand on it and lightem up. So what gears would that be?? if the gears are changed in the rear does that mean anything has 2 be changed in the front end??
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 01:40 PM
  #14  
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Depends on what your tire size is. If I missed that part, sorry. But all you had to do was a simple search here and you would have found the same info I am providing you with. http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartable.htm
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 02:39 PM
  #15  
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Tire diameter directly affects what gears are needed. You have a 4x4 so front & rear must be changed. If your not doing it yourself, expect to pay at least 1200, maybe as much as 1500.
30" 410s are good
33-35 you want 456
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 04:03 PM
  #16  
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Thanks RMindy, how hard is that 2 do?? ive never done gears. other than the rebuilding my t-case.

zman17 thanks 4 the info! BUT SETTLE DOWN WITH THAT EAZY/SIMPLE SEARCH CRAP! far as im concernd the search here sucks ram nuts OK COWHAND

anyway i finished my plenum kit/kegger mod and did the sea foam. but now when i rev her up & let off it doesnt rev down right away. maby vacume?? any ideas on what i did or didnt do right. besides a simple search (LOL)
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 04:11 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by NAILS
Thanks RMindy, how hard is that 2 do?? ive never done gears. other than the rebuilding my t-case.

zman17 thanks 4 the info! BUT SETTLE DOWN WITH THAT EAZY/SIMPLE SEARCH CRAP! far as im concernd the search here sucks ram nuts OK COWHAND

anyway i finished my plenum kit/kegger mod and did the sea foam. but now when i rev her up & let off it doesnt rev down right away. maby vacume?? any ideas on what i did or didnt do right. besides a simple search (LOL)
The search here is awesome.

Does the truck stay at 1200 RPMs then drop back down to idle? Thats just the IAC working.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 05:50 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by NAILS

zman17 thanks 4 the info! BUT SETTLE DOWN WITH THAT EAZY/SIMPLE SEARCH CRAP! far as im concernd the search here sucks ram nuts OK COWHAND

What ever you say bud! Or should I say NOOB! LOL COWHAND! LMAO
 

Last edited by zman17; Mar 2, 2010 at 05:56 PM.
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 06:06 PM
  #19  
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maby it was just me, i was reving it up under the hood by hand, and it didnt seem to drop rpms as fast as usaul. but then after i read ur Q i tried agian from the cab and seems 2 be fine
 
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