Advice on Fuel Injection System, O2 Sensor, ect
I did some work on my 2001 1500 Ram, 5.9L and had a couple of issues come up that I need some advice on (see end of post for the laundry list of some work).
1. When I was disconnecting the fuel injection electronic connectors from the fuel injector, the little hold down clips broke on most of them. Dodge says they don't sell just the clips but will be gald to sell me the entire harness, which I'm not planning to buy. I'm thinking about just squeezing a glob of RTV on each injector to make sure the connector doesn't jar loose from the injector. Any thoughts?
2. On the quick connect fuel line from the fuel rail, there is a stainless steel cage inside the female connection. I bent a couple of the legs on it and can't get it to re-connect properly. I left it out of the connector and just used the outer clamp bracket to secure the line. The connection feels nice and snug and I pressurized the system and didn't have any leaks. Is it safe to run with it like this? If not, is there a simple, cheap way to make the connection safely? Again, Dodge doesn't sell just the stainless steel cage but will sell me the whole fuel line for $80.
3. I've the original owner and have over 173K miles on the truck and have never changed the O2 senors. So I am planning to change the sensors (one before cat and one after). I sprayed down both the existing sesors with PB Blaster this evening and will hit it again with PB Blast tomorrow before I fire it up to check for coolant leaks. Do the senors usually come out pretty easily or is there something else I should do to make the exchange go smoothly?
4. I pulled the heat shields that surround the spark plugs and I'm thinking about leaving them off this time. The manual says don't take them off but I don't see them doing a lot of good and they trap a lot of moisture and grime and I think it makes things hotter instead of cooler. Any thoughts?
I've addressed some issues I've neglected for a long time. I'm curious to see the change in power and mileage.
Items addressed:
*New Plenum Gasket (never been replaced)
*Cleaned intake, throttle body (looked like tar) and sensors
*Replaced coolant sensor (broke it trying to disconnect the electronics)
*Replaced thermostat, hoses (after leak check, will flush and refill with distilled water and Zerex G-05, not the green stuff)
*Replaced brittle, leaking vacuum lines and leaking check valve
*Replaced cracked, brittle altenator cable
*Replaced plugs, cables, cap, rotor (all way over due)
*Replaced air filter, PCV valve, brittle breather, grommets
*Drained oil, replaced filter, added fresh oil and 8 oz of seafoam. After 100 miles I'll change oil and filter and add a can of Restore.
*Replaced front and rear differential oil with Mopar 75-140 (and friction reducer)
*Replaced ATF, xfer case fluid, changed filter, adjusted bands
*lubed joints, doors, hood latch
*Reconnected a vacuum line. Not sure what it was for but it was just rear of the ATF pan.
And for tomorrow:
*Replace O2 sensors
*Run some Seafoam directly into intake (Seafoam is great stuff, I use it in my boat fuel all the time)
*Reset PCM and hold on
I'm beat.
1. When I was disconnecting the fuel injection electronic connectors from the fuel injector, the little hold down clips broke on most of them. Dodge says they don't sell just the clips but will be gald to sell me the entire harness, which I'm not planning to buy. I'm thinking about just squeezing a glob of RTV on each injector to make sure the connector doesn't jar loose from the injector. Any thoughts?
2. On the quick connect fuel line from the fuel rail, there is a stainless steel cage inside the female connection. I bent a couple of the legs on it and can't get it to re-connect properly. I left it out of the connector and just used the outer clamp bracket to secure the line. The connection feels nice and snug and I pressurized the system and didn't have any leaks. Is it safe to run with it like this? If not, is there a simple, cheap way to make the connection safely? Again, Dodge doesn't sell just the stainless steel cage but will sell me the whole fuel line for $80.
3. I've the original owner and have over 173K miles on the truck and have never changed the O2 senors. So I am planning to change the sensors (one before cat and one after). I sprayed down both the existing sesors with PB Blaster this evening and will hit it again with PB Blast tomorrow before I fire it up to check for coolant leaks. Do the senors usually come out pretty easily or is there something else I should do to make the exchange go smoothly?
4. I pulled the heat shields that surround the spark plugs and I'm thinking about leaving them off this time. The manual says don't take them off but I don't see them doing a lot of good and they trap a lot of moisture and grime and I think it makes things hotter instead of cooler. Any thoughts?
I've addressed some issues I've neglected for a long time. I'm curious to see the change in power and mileage.
Items addressed:
*New Plenum Gasket (never been replaced)
*Cleaned intake, throttle body (looked like tar) and sensors
*Replaced coolant sensor (broke it trying to disconnect the electronics)
*Replaced thermostat, hoses (after leak check, will flush and refill with distilled water and Zerex G-05, not the green stuff)
*Replaced brittle, leaking vacuum lines and leaking check valve
*Replaced cracked, brittle altenator cable
*Replaced plugs, cables, cap, rotor (all way over due)
*Replaced air filter, PCV valve, brittle breather, grommets
*Drained oil, replaced filter, added fresh oil and 8 oz of seafoam. After 100 miles I'll change oil and filter and add a can of Restore.
*Replaced front and rear differential oil with Mopar 75-140 (and friction reducer)
*Replaced ATF, xfer case fluid, changed filter, adjusted bands
*lubed joints, doors, hood latch
*Reconnected a vacuum line. Not sure what it was for but it was just rear of the ATF pan.
And for tomorrow:
*Replace O2 sensors
*Run some Seafoam directly into intake (Seafoam is great stuff, I use it in my boat fuel all the time)
*Reset PCM and hold on
I'm beat.
Looks like you are off to a good start. Welcome to Dodge Forum!
2. Bend it back until it fits. I dont think it would hurt to leave it off, either.
3. Change them with either NTK (made by NGK) or Denso (OEM brand, and cheaper than the NTKs). Warm the truck up a little before replacing them, too.
4. You can leave them off.
2. Bend it back until it fits. I dont think it would hurt to leave it off, either.
3. Change them with either NTK (made by NGK) or Denso (OEM brand, and cheaper than the NTKs). Warm the truck up a little before replacing them, too.
4. You can leave them off.
1.... You can get the clips from a local salvage yard....
2.... You can get the cage from a local salvage yard....
3.... YOu can put some thread ease lube on it. Also what you use for spark plugs. Keeps it from siezing into the exhaust....
4.... Just have to be sure not to burn the wires... They will melt.
2.... You can get the cage from a local salvage yard....
3.... YOu can put some thread ease lube on it. Also what you use for spark plugs. Keeps it from siezing into the exhaust....
4.... Just have to be sure not to burn the wires... They will melt.
you should get the injector clips ASAP. without them, you will be getting misfire codes all the time. YOu may not think it, but those clips are there for a reason.
you might need to get new pigtails alltogether. That is about 8-12 dollars per piece.
I had the same problem with missfire codes. Changeds the coil, plugs, cap and rotor many times before i finally figured out the problem.
you might need to get new pigtails alltogether. That is about 8-12 dollars per piece.
I had the same problem with missfire codes. Changeds the coil, plugs, cap and rotor many times before i finally figured out the problem.
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you should get the injector clips ASAP. without them, you will be getting misfire codes all the time. YOu may not think it, but those clips are there for a reason.
you might need to get new pigtails alltogether. That is about 8-12 dollars per piece.
I had the same problem with missfire codes. Changeds the coil, plugs, cap and rotor many times before i finally figured out the problem.
you might need to get new pigtails alltogether. That is about 8-12 dollars per piece.
I had the same problem with missfire codes. Changeds the coil, plugs, cap and rotor many times before i finally figured out the problem.
I take it you don't like my idea of squeezing some RTV on each one to hold it on?
Thanks




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