Yeah all i have sitting around is liquid wrench and I really dont think it helps at all and I herd the same about pb

 

When I did my plenum repair, here's the list of stuff I needed/used:

For the plenum repair:
-APS Precision plenum repair kit, includes new alum belly pan, belly pan gasket, belly pan bolts, intake manifold bolts, and intake flange gaskets.
-New water pump bypass hose and clamps
-Ultra Black RTV
-New coolant
-New 180 tstat and gasket
-New throttlebody gasket
-Blue thread locker
-3/8" fuel line disconnect tool
-New injector o-rings
-Mopar combustion chamber cleaner - 2 cans
-Oil change supplies

For tune-up and other maintenance that was convenient to do at the same time:
-New plugs
-New wires (one of mine got burnt on a header, so I replaced them)
-New cap and rotor
-New air filter
-New serpentine belt
-New radiator hoses top and bottom
-New valve cover gaskets
-New valve cover breather
-New PCV

Other:
-printed copies of 3 different plenum repair procedures (for reference)
-Chrysler service manual, Haynes manual, Chiltons manual (always laying around in my garage)
-12 pack your brew of choice.


Don't forget to let the RTV have time to correctly cure before you run the engine. Read the instructions to see how long it need to cure. Some also have to cure partially before you should torque to spec, so make sure you pay attention to that.

 

Thanks everyone for the help. Im getting awful nervous about doing this next weekend. Ive never ripped into my truck this much before. Also what exactly do I use the rtv on cause it says im not suppose to use it on the plenum gasket itself. So im Just kinda confused cause the only other gaskets that came with go on the heads dont they and im suppose to put rty on them to?

 

Don't worry about doing it, I read through the procedure from a few different locations and the only instructions I had out there with me was the sheet with the torque sequence for the plenum pan bolts.

The rubber end seals that go between the intake and the block touch the gaskets that go on the heads, the rtv goes between the rubber and the gaskets on the heads (not too much though).

For penetrating fluid, CRC Knock'er loose, CRC Freezeoff, Cyclo Breakaway and Aerokroil are the ones to use. But they're not commonly available like liquid wrench and pb (pb sucks by the way).

Liquid wrench will work, it just takes a little longer. The morning before you do the fix, spray the front and rear bolts on the intake (4 bolts) that go into open air instead of into the heads. Also spray around the bolts on the accessory bracket (alternator/ac compressor are bolted to it) spray the fan clutch bolt also.
then that evening, spray again. Then again the next morning and you should be good.

Just remember that when you're backing a bolt out that if it starts getting tight that means it's binding on the rust and can snap. Spray the threads then run it back in, then out, then in until it comes out without getting tight. The penetrating fluid and the movement of the bolt will grind the rust down enough to get the bolt out without snapping it.

One other thing you can try is a 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone. Mix it in a glass bottle a little at a time (acetone evaporates fairly quick) then pour a little on, wait a minute then try to remove the bolt.
I've read where that is the best penetrating fluid, but I have yet to try it. So you can try it and let me know how it goes. Just remember that acetone is some nasty stuff, so take care not to splash it and wash your hands if you get any on them.

 

Please! Download this https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-gen-rams.html or at least get a Haynes manual for the love of God! LOL Read the procedure either way you go, before you do the job. You'll know what you need and what to expect, except for some of the useful tips you have gotten from the kind folks at DF.

 

Yes I've read the haynes manual a bunch of times now and is it necassary to take the fan shroud and fan off because it doesnt say anything about it in the manual. And I picked up a can of cyclo breakaway this morning so I think Im pretty much set except I cant find an inch lbs tourqe wrench anywhere

 

I didn't take it out when I did mine. It makes it easier if you do beacuse you can just stand in the engine compartment, but it is still doable if you don't.

 

i brought my manifold to a machine shop, and they mde it look brand new for 40 bucks...might want to look into that....

This is my manifold (i did the kegger mod though)
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/members...th-hughes.html

Also dont get nervous, its actually a pretty easy job....Just make sure everything is clean, and just keep things organized. I put all the bolts into different bags...(IE- I put the manifold bolts in one bag, the a/c &alt. bracket bolts in one bag, etc.) but i actually got a set of Hughes intake gaskets with new bolts, as well as Hughes Plate....

 

The fan shroud only takes about 5 minutes to take out and it will save you a backache if you do. Just make sure you don't have anything metal in your back pocket when you're standing in the engine that can dent the radiator.

It's a good thing you found that Cyclo, it isn't available locally around here. According to zman it is some really good stuff.

Sears has inch pound torque wrenches, that's where I got mine - Craftsman microtorque.

 

See if any local auto parts stores have them to rent too. Autozone and Checkers both rent tools out. Costs nothing as long as you bring them back in. They might have an in/lb torque wrench.

I bought a Craftsman online when I did mine.