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Whats all needed to do the plenum fix

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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 01:41 AM
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Default Whats all needed to do the plenum fix

So I went threw the first four pages of info after searching for plenum and I just want to make sure I have everything before I attempt this next weekend. I know I need wrenches sockets ratchets, An inch lbs tourque wrench and a fuel line disconnect. Do I need to get some rtv? I also plan on doing the cap rotor and wires right away to theres nothing special I need for that is there? Whats should I use for cleaning out the kegger? Brake cleaner or seafoam? Anything else Im forgetting?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 03:06 AM
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You'll need the Hughes or APS kit. I don't see that you listed that anywhere...

I've also heard of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner being used to clean out the "kegger".
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 06:51 AM
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as per cap and rotor, nothing special, but you need either a 7mm ratchet, or a philips head screw driver, i sugest the socket... the rotor will be tough to get off, dont get discuradged, just keep tryin, it comes off...

as for the kegger, havent done mine yet so i dont know...
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 09:28 AM
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Yes you will need some RTV, and maybe threadlocker blue I believe.
Some people use threadlocker on the bolts for the manifold pan, some don't.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 09:37 AM
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Spanner wrench if your water pump pulley has holes in it for one, strap wrench if it doesn't.
I found out the other day that you can take the fan out before you take the shroud out if you remove it through the bottom-left side of the shroud. You will have to make sure that the two fan blades that are close together are pointed toward the steering gear box to get it out. That makes it easier to remove the fan shroud.

Don't forget to drain the coolant first.

RTV for the corners of the end seals that go between the block and the intake.
Acetone to wipe down the gasket surfaces.
One of those screwdriver looking razor blade scrapers would be good for scraping the heads/plenum gasket surface clean.
Thermostat and a new bypass hose.

I used carb cleaner for the keg, but it didn't get it that clean. It got the gunk off, but it wasn't shiney.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 11:34 AM
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Yeah I know I gotta drain the coolant and yes I already have the hughes kit. But do I really need to replace the bypass house. When I bought the truck in october it had all new hoses on it. I've also had a new thermostat sitting in the garage since I bought the truck just havent gotten around to doing it yet. I also think I have to replace the fan clutch something is clicking and I think thats what it is
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 11:54 AM
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If the bypass hose got changed in october then I wouldn't worry about it. The reason so many people say to replace that hose when you do the plenum is because you have to take the accessory bracket off to get to it when it starts leaking, and that is takes a little while.
The tensioner can make a clicking noise, shoot some wd-40 into the spring on it to see if it stops.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 12:58 PM
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alright yeah Ill do that and sheriff I know your the guy to talk to about penetrating fluids what do you recomend?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by meanwhitemopar
as per cap and rotor, nothing special, but you need either a 7mm ratchet, or a philips head screw driver, i sugest the socket... the rotor will be tough to get off, dont get discuradged, just keep tryin, it comes off...

+1.... I did my lower intake this week, went to replace cap and rotor, first screw stripped, went to do the other one and the ear snapped off the distributor. Luckily, I looked to my left where my 1500 is sitting.

Originally Posted by rwilhelms
alright yeah Ill do that and sheriff I know your the guy to talk to about penetrating fluids what do you recomend?

Try Cyclo Breakaway or Seafoam Deep Creep. PB sucks.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 07:19 PM
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Also an oil change after you do the fix. Even if you drain the coolant some of it will still drain down into the oil pan
 
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