And the saga continues...
Well... Got the truck back together finally (was sick for a bit and just let it sit in the garage)
After new ball joints (upper and lower) new hubs, new u-joints, new shocks, axle seals, tie-rod, drag link, track bar. I was excited to finally put the wheels back on and take it for a road test.
I pull out of the garage and was happy with the way it drove, very smooth. Still a bit of road wonder, but I chalked it up to "it's a truck"
Pull back into my drive way, and I notice my wheels still have negative camber ( /---\ ) WTF!!! I hop back in the truck and drive to alignment shop down the road. The guy I had look at my truck seemed to be a "off road enthusiast" by the way he talked and seemed very knowledgeable on this particular subject. He said "it's very common the d44 on these trucks to get some axle bend to them, and the only way to "fix" the problem is A) new housing, or B) off set or adjustable ball joints.
So off to home I go, a little disappointed and frustrated. I hit up the trusty dodgeforum to do a little research. I was surprised at the number of people with the same problem. (hence SpcD1500 thread on the D60 axle swap, he had the same problem)
Going to pick up a set of Moog adjustable ball joints (K7405) and give this a shot to see if it fixes my negative camber. I would love to throw a D60 in like Adam did, but finding one up here for cheap (<$800) would be tough!
I was going to do the rear main seal in the near future, guess that will have to wait.
Do you think i should write up a "how to" on off set/adjustable ball joints?
After new ball joints (upper and lower) new hubs, new u-joints, new shocks, axle seals, tie-rod, drag link, track bar. I was excited to finally put the wheels back on and take it for a road test.
I pull out of the garage and was happy with the way it drove, very smooth. Still a bit of road wonder, but I chalked it up to "it's a truck"
Pull back into my drive way, and I notice my wheels still have negative camber ( /---\ ) WTF!!! I hop back in the truck and drive to alignment shop down the road. The guy I had look at my truck seemed to be a "off road enthusiast" by the way he talked and seemed very knowledgeable on this particular subject. He said "it's very common the d44 on these trucks to get some axle bend to them, and the only way to "fix" the problem is A) new housing, or B) off set or adjustable ball joints.
So off to home I go, a little disappointed and frustrated. I hit up the trusty dodgeforum to do a little research. I was surprised at the number of people with the same problem. (hence SpcD1500 thread on the D60 axle swap, he had the same problem)
Going to pick up a set of Moog adjustable ball joints (K7405) and give this a shot to see if it fixes my negative camber. I would love to throw a D60 in like Adam did, but finding one up here for cheap (<$800) would be tough!
I was going to do the rear main seal in the near future, guess that will have to wait.
Do you think i should write up a "how to" on off set/adjustable ball joints?
The rear main is only 69$ all together FYI.
30$ for the pan gasket.
14$ for the rear main.
25$ for oil and filter.
And it isn't that hard to change, maybe 2 hours worth of work all together.
30$ for the pan gasket.
14$ for the rear main.
25$ for oil and filter.
And it isn't that hard to change, maybe 2 hours worth of work all together.
LOL, already have the parts to do the rear main. it's the "Time" part I have troubles with.
thought it was a little longer then 2 hours tho. I don't have the ability to raise the engine to help get the pan out.
thought it was a little longer then 2 hours tho. I don't have the ability to raise the engine to help get the pan out.
It's a 4x4, you should be able to do it without raising the motor.
As far as the axles bending goes, I've told people about that problem on here and have recommended adjustable bjoints, which I have installed on my 1500. I used MOOG lower ones. Make sure the axle is not bent too much. Because if the BJ has to be adjusted in too far, it will bind the outer shaft to the intermediate axle shaft on the passenger side.
As far as the axles bending goes, I've told people about that problem on here and have recommended adjustable bjoints, which I have installed on my 1500. I used MOOG lower ones. Make sure the axle is not bent too much. Because if the BJ has to be adjusted in too far, it will bind the outer shaft to the intermediate axle shaft on the passenger side.
Hey Zman,
Your right, you don't have to raise the engine to get the pan off but makes the job go a little faster (just reading the DIY on pavementsucks http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-31.html )
Never thought about the binding issue. I assumed the u-joint would compensate for this. I don't know how far out my camber is, but it is noticeable. I will grab a pic tonight when I get home from work and post it.
Your right, you don't have to raise the engine to get the pan off but makes the job go a little faster (just reading the DIY on pavementsucks http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-31.html )
Never thought about the binding issue. I assumed the u-joint would compensate for this. I don't know how far out my camber is, but it is noticeable. I will grab a pic tonight when I get home from work and post it.
That's the instructions I went by along with Haynes for a little more info (torque mainly). The only thing that will hang you up is the transmission cooler lines, but they don't catch the pan too bad, not enough to make you start cussing anyway.
thank you....when i did my wheel barings, axle seals etc i noticed my pass. axle shaft when spinning has a slight off set to it....VERY minimal....but this could be why i still have a bit of play.....sucks that i just put in new NON adjustable ball joints....
Trending Topics
On a different note, as I was cleaning up the garage last night I found a PLO (Part left over) it looks like a small aluminum spacer (almost like a big washer) that goes between the hub and the knuckle. It is not the brake shield. maybe it is a piece of the old brake shield. Meh, Is this a big deal?



